Callisia

Callisia

A perennial herbaceous evergreen plant Callisia is a member of the Kommelin family. In nature, the flower is found in South and Central America, as well as the Antilles, while it prefers to grow in shade and with high humidity in the subtropics and tropics. The genus consists of 12 species, some of which are cultivated at home. The name "callisia" is derived from two Greek words, translated as "beautiful" and "lily". However, this plant is not closely related to the lily, but to Tradescantia.

Brief description of cultivation

  1. Bloom... At home, the flowering of callis is a rather rare occurrence. As a rule, this happens in the last summer or first autumn weeks.
  2. Illumination... Grows well in light shade or in diffused bright lighting.
  3. Temperature regime... In the spring-summer period - from 20 to 24 degrees, and in the cold season - from 16 to 18 degrees. Make sure that the room is not colder than 14 degrees.
  4. Watering... During the growing season, the bush is watered immediately after the top layer of the substrate dries. In winter, the soil mixture is moistened only after it dries out to a depth of 1/3 part.
  5. Humidity... Needs high humidity. On hot days, it is necessary to systematically moisten the foliage with a spray bottle.
  6. Fertilizer... The flower is fed in April-October 1 time in 15 days, for this a solution of the mineral complex is used. In other months, the plant is not fed.
  7. Dormant period... November – March.
  8. Transfer... While the bush is young, it is transplanted regularly once a year, and older specimens are subjected to this procedure less often (1 time in 2 or 3 years).
  9. Reproduction... Layers, apical cuttings and division of the rhizome.
  10. Diseases... The decorativeness of the plant may suffer due to improper care or inappropriate growing conditions.
  11. Pests... Spider mites and thrips.
  12. Properties... The flower reacts extremely negatively to tobacco smoke.

Callisia creeping -Callisia repens. Propagation by cuttings // Indoor flowers

Callisia features

Despite the fact that callisia can bloom indoors, it is cultivated as an ornamental deciduous plant. At home, 4 types of callisia are most often grown: scaphoid, fragrant (golden mustache), creeping and graceful. As a rule, all these species are grown as ampelous crops, while fragrant callis is considered a healing plant.

Callisia care at home

Lighting and location selection

A room collision needs a lot of bright light to be diffused. Be sure to shade the bush from direct sunlight. If the room is sunny, then the bush can be placed away from the window. It is extremely undesirable to place this plant in the kitchen, because it reacts negatively to various vapors, tobacco smoke, impurities in the air, etc. to the street or to the balcony.

Callisia can decorate not only your apartment or summer cottage, she also feels quite normal in the office. However, special attention should be paid to ventilation. Avoid the appearance of a draft, as it is even more dangerous for the plant than stuffiness.

Temperature regime

Callisia feels normal in the summer at temperatures from 20 to 24 degrees, and in the winter - from 16 to 20 degrees. But remember that the flower must be protected from cold and sudden changes in temperature. Make sure that the room is not colder than 14 degrees in winter.

Watering

In spring and summer, soft water is used for watering collisions, the temperature of which should be close to room temperature. The substrate in the pot is moistened immediately after its top layer dries. In autumn and winter, the collision is watered less often and less poorly, especially if it is in a cool room. But at the same time, remember that the soil mixture in the pot should not completely dry out, as this can lead to the death of the bush. Also, make sure that during watering, liquid does not fall into the middle of the leaf outlet, otherwise the plant may rot.

Air humidity

Since the collision comes from the tropics, it needs high humidity. Particular attention should be paid to this on hot days in summer and in winter, when heating devices are working in the room. In order to protect the flower from the harmful effects of excessively dry air, it should be regularly humidified from a spray bottle, if possible, you can use a household air humidifier.

Top dressing

The plant needs feeding from April to October. They are carried out every 2 weeks, using a mineral complex for indoor plants. At other times, the bushes are not fed.

Callisia transplant

While the flower is young, it needs frequent regular replanting, which is carried out once a year. When the bush grows up, they begin to transplant it 1 time in 2 or 3 years.

The new container should be 20 mm larger than the old one. It is filled of its height with a drainage layer consisting of pebbles or expanded clay. Using the transshipment method, transplant the bush into a new container, and fill the existing voids with a soil mixture consisting of sand, humus, leaf and sod soil (1: 1: 1: 1). The transplanted flower must be well moistened.

Some growers believe that callisia does not need a transplant. Instead, it is better to take a stalk from an old bush and grow a new flower from it. Of course, if the bush in the lower part is very bare, then it is better to do just that. But if you take good care of it, then it will not grow out so quickly.

collision. I parse the mother liquor

Reproduction methods

If desired, callisia can be propagated at any time of the year. To do this, use the same methods as for propagation of ivy, tradescantia or hoya.

Cuttings

You will need to cut the apical stalk from the bush, which should have 3 or 4 internodes. Submerge the cut in a glass of water and let the roots grow back. After rooting, the cuttings are planted in a pot. To make the bush lush, several cuttings are planted in one container at once.

How to propagate callisia. Simple and fast

Layers

Quite simply, callisia propagates by layering. Take a shoot and simply dig it into a container next to the parent bush. If there is no room in the pot, then a small container with earth is placed next to it and the stem is added to it. After the roots appear on it, the stem should be cut off from the bush and planted in an individual container.

Dividing the bush

There is nothing complicated here either. During transplanting, divide the bush into several parts. Then each piece is planted in a separate pot.

Possible problems

Callisia diseases

Indoor callisia is extremely resistant to various diseases. But if you constantly violate the rules of care or the flower is not provided with optimal conditions for existence, then problems may arise with it:

  1. Drying of the tips of the leaf plates... You water the bush too sparsely or rarely, and the air in the room is very dry.
  2. The shoots are stretched, and the foliage flies... Excessively poor lighting.
  3. Leaves fly around en masse, and rot has appeared on the root system... Liquid stagnates regularly in the substrate. This may be due to frequent moistening of the substrate or poor-quality drainage.

Pests

Spider mites and thrips can settle on the plant. These pests are sucking, that is, they suck the juice from the leaf plates, which is why they turn yellow and die off. The bush itself begins to wither. Acaricides are used to get rid of ticks, and insecticides are used to get rid of thrips. It is necessary to spray the bush in a well-ventilated room or on the street, since these drugs are dangerous to people.

Types and varieties of callisia with a photo

Callisia elegans

In this compact species, the shoots are creeping and geniculate, their length is more than 50 cm. At first, the shoots are erect, but over time they go down. Such a flower is outwardly very similar to Tradescantia. Its height can vary from 0.3 to 0.4 m. On the surface of the shoots and foliage, there is a velvety pubescence to the touch. The oval-shaped foliage without petiole is pointed at the tops. In length, it reaches about 60 mm, while the seamy surface is painted in a greenish-purple hue, and the front surface is dark green with silvery stripes. White flowers appear at the tops of the stems. Pay attention to the fact that after 2 years the plant loses its decorative effect: the foliage becomes duller and thinner. Restore callisia by layers or cuttings.

Callisia navicularis

This species is quite variable. The fact is that its decorative effect is in direct proportion to the growing conditions and variety. In such a succulent plant, shoots in the nodes take root very quickly. Its succulent lanceolate leaf plates are two-row, and they are strongly concave, there is a longitudinal hollow. The seamy surface of the foliage is violet-brown, and the front is greenish-bronze, in sunlight it shines red. The foliage is devoid of pubescence, however, along the line that ascends from the sinus, there are short villi. The width of the sheet plates is 15 mm and the length is 20 mm.

Callisia creeping (Callisia repens)

In diameter, the bush reaches about 30 centimeters, and in height - up to 20 centimeters. Shoots are purple or pale red and rather thin. They are decorated with small rich green leaf plates covered with lilac specks, they have a heart-shaped shape and are arranged in 2 rows. Flowers that are not highly decorative are painted in a white shade. In the garden, this species is grown as a ground cover, and in room culture, the bushes are planted in suspended structures.

Garden forms:

  1. Bianca... Delicate shoots are painted in a purple-reddish hue, while small leaf plates have a rich green color.
  2. Pink Panther... The foliage of this plant is green-pink, and it is painted in stripes.

The following varieties of this species are also popular among gardeners: Noum Popula, Pink Lady and Tortl.

Callisia fragrant, or Thai (Callisia fragrans)

The people also call this species a golden mustache, live hair, corn, Far Eastern mustache, homemade ginseng. This type of callisia differs from the others grown at home in that it has a larger bush. Its height often reaches about 150 cm. But remember that such a plant needs good support, otherwise it can break under its own weight.

Such a plant has 2 types of shoots:

  • fleshy short vertically growing stems, decorated with large leaf rosettes at the tops;
  • tubular long horizontally located processes (articulated whiskers), which are necessary for the flower to "conquer" new territories.

Large, leathery to the touch, leaf plates are quite fragrant and painted in a dark green tint. Their width is about 6 centimeters, and their length is up to 30 centimeters. The seamy surface of the foliage is matte, and the front surface is shiny. If the bush is in a well-lit place, then its foliage takes on a pinkish tint.

Ampel plant - callisia ...


Philodendron climbing

Climbing philodendron is a houseplant that cannot grow without a so-called base, which is a tree. There are many varieties of philodendrons. This plant can reach enormous sizes, so a spacious room in which it will be more comfortable to grow, and will look much more interesting will be the most suitable for them.

The philodendron has many so-called relatives, both in size and development. One of the most similar is the monstera (she, like the philodendron, is part of the aroid family, but of a slightly different species). The most affordable for growing in an ordinary small apartment can be considered such a subspecies of philodendron as climbing. It, unlike others, can be grown in an ordinary pot, or basket, it will not take up much space, and it will not take much time for courting, as it is quite unpretentious, and grows well in the shade.

There are several more types of this culture, which will also grow pretty well in a small apartment. This can be considered a philodendron under such an interesting "name" as warty. The leaves of this plant are slightly more decorative than those of other species, but still, without a base, it will not grow beautiful and healthy.

Sello is another type of philodendron, which is distinguished by its beautiful, but not quite small leaves. Although the growth of this plant reaches a maximum of 1.5 meters, and, it would seem, will not bring inconvenience when grown in a cramped apartment, the plant can grow quite spaciously in width. Even if the plants differ in size, or they are of different types, then the care for them will be exactly the same (this is if the culture is grown at home).


Calathei: home care

Most kalata (see Calathea), like all representatives of the arrowroot family, are distinguished by luxurious leaves, their pattern is very diverse and often resembles the coloring of feathers of exotic birds. Some species are also valued for their beautiful inflorescences. High decorative qualities made calatheas very popular and desirable indoor plants, however, it is possible to preserve the beauty of acquired calatheas only when certain conditions are created.

In nature, these plants are found in warm and humid tropical forests, jungles, where they grow under the canopy of tall trees. And at home, they also require high humidity, year-round warmth, bright ambient light and regular watering. Varieties with glossy leaves are the most resistant at home. And species such as Varshevich's calathea and striped calathea, having velvety leaves, react extremely negatively to the dry indoor air.

Illumination. Calatheas prefer bright diffused light; direct sunlight on the plant causes burns. Poor lighting can blur the leaf pattern, while stronger lighting will make the leaves smaller and may lose color saturation. It is optimal to place calatheas near the eastern and western windows; in the southern ones in summer, mandatory protection from the sun is required. Calatheas can also grow under artificial lighting with a light period of about 14 hours. In winter, it is necessary to supplement the illumination of plants with phyto lamps to increase the level of illumination and the length of daylight hours.

Air humidity should be about 70-90%, it is possible to achieve stable such parameters only in greenhouses, special flower showcases, florariums. Often, it is the dry indoor air that is an insurmountable problem when growing kalata. In open areas, it is often necessary to spray the air from a fine spray next to the plant, since the leaves of many varieties can become stained from moisture droplets on them. But even frequent spraying and pallets with expanded clay cannot provide the required air humidity in the room - the leaves of kalata, especially in varieties with velvety surfaces, can dry out at the edges.

Temperature conditions. Calatheas are heat-loving plants, they require constant moderate heat, within + 22 + 26 o C. Even in winter, it is undesirable to allow the temperature to drop below +18 o C, as well as cooling the roots, strong and cold drafts. Calatheas do not tolerate too high temperatures, above +30 o C. It is not recommended to take calatheas out into the open air in summer, they do not tolerate sudden jumps in day and night temperatures and other conditions.

Watering in the warm season, regular, moderate, after the top layer of the soil dries out. Do not allow stagnation of water in the pot and pan. The substrate in the pot is watered from above with warm, settled soft water, trying to avoid water getting on the leaves. Hard water is acidified with lemon juice every few waterings, 1-3 drops per liter. In cool conditions, reduce the abundance and frequency of watering, trying to avoid root rot.

Top dressing carried out only during the growth of kalata, in the warm and light seasons. If it becomes cool in the room and not enough light, then feeding should be reduced or completely canceled. It is advisable to divide the monthly dose of fertilizer by the number of waterings per month and apply this small portion with each watering. Fractional fertilization will prevent severe soil salinization and root burns and will always meet the needs of the plant at the moment, since it directly depends on the growing conditions. The better the conditions for growth are, the more actively the plant absorbs water and minerals, the more often it should be watered and fed at the same time. The optimal ratio of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) in feed for kalata is 3-1-2. Excess potassium leads to mottling and a decrease in the intensity of the color of the leaves. The composition of fertilizers must include trace elements.

Soil and transplants. For kalata, a light and well-drained moisture-absorbing soil is required; it can be composed of 3 parts of peat and 1 part of sand or perlite. The addition of leaf humus, as well as coniferous litter, which will acidify and loosen the soil, will have a good effect. The acidity of the soil (pH) must be maintained at about 6.5. There is no need to completely change the substrate after purchasing the plants, since they are planted in high-moor peat suitable for kalata with the addition of fertilizers. Substitution of soil causes severe root trauma, which can lead to long-term illness or death of the plant. Young plants are transplanted once a year in the spring by neat transfer into a slightly larger pot, if their root system has mastered the volume well. Adult plants are transplanted every few years, but every year they change the topsoil to a fresh one.

Reproduction kalatea possibly by seeds and division of rhizomes. With a strong growth of underground shoots during transplantation, the calathea can be divided into several parts.


Difficulties in the cultivation of the Callisia culture

Callisia is almost not prone to disease. If any ailment appears, you should know that you personally had a hand in this, because this is always connected with a violation of caring for the plant and equipping it with proper conditions of detention. As for insect pests, then no one is to blame. Callisia is capable of falling prey to spider mites and thrips.

There are other difficulties as well:

  • Decay of the plant, browning of vegetative organs, leaf fall. The reason is the flooding of the soil under the flower, excessive wetting of the soil.
  • Drying of the ends of the leaves. The reason is a lack of moisture in the soil, a low level of air humidity.

In conclusion, let us return to the famous type of callisia - fragrant callis or golden mustache. This plant, as everyone knows, has healing qualities. It enriches the room air with antibacterial compounds - phytoncides. Exotic juice excellently heals a variety of skin lesions: from scratches to significant wounds. If you install a golden mustache at the head of a sleeping person, this measure, thanks to popular beliefs, will free the dreamer from nightmares. Let your callisia serve you faithfully!

Creator: ponomarenko hope
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callisia care at home


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