5 dressings your peppers will love

 5 dressings your peppers will love

To get a bountiful harvest of peppers, the plants need to be fed. For this purpose, you can use ready-made fertilizers, but it is cheaper to use natural alternatives prepared by yourself.

Banana peel

If the peppers lack nutrients, the bushes become weak, thin and stop bearing fruit. Banana peels will help make things better. This simple tool that everyone has in the kitchen has already proven its effectiveness in increasing the yield of a capricious vegetable. It is very easy to prepare fertilizer. Take the peel of several bananas for this and chop it with a knife. Fill with water and leave for three days. After that, the resulting liquid is filtered and used for watering the beds. The secret of a positive effect on the fertility of peppers lies in the high content of potassium, which is necessary for the early development of bushes and obtaining high-quality fruits from them.

Ash

Peppers love this affordable top dressing and always respond positively to it. It has a beneficial effect throughout the growing season. Provides excellent palatability and improves overall plant health. The solution is easy to make. For 2 liters of hot water, you need a tablespoon of wood ash. The product must be clean, free of any impurities. The option of deciduous trees, especially birch, has excellent properties. The mixture is left for a day. Then it needs to be shaken properly, as a sediment forms at the bottom, and it's time to start watering. The result will be visible soon. Ash contains about 30 minerals in an accessible form. But remember that this is not suitable for alkaline soil. But sour, on the contrary, will make it neutral.

Yeast feeding

Yeast affects the intensive growth of vegetables. Pepper in this regard is no exception. This mixture helps him to build up the root system and green mass. This organic fertilizer is appreciated for its naturalness and harmlessness. With regular use, the resistance of peppers to negative environmental factors and diseases increases, and the roots begin to grow faster. 1 kg of yeast is soaked in 5 liters of liquid. They are placed in a warm, dark place and left in this form for one day. Then a couple of tablespoons of ash are added to the solution and each bush is watered under the root. You should not use yeast without such an additive, as it leads to the leaching of potassium from the soil.

Eggshell

Gardeners often lay crushed chicken egg shells in the ground even at the stage of planting vegetables. But you can also make fertilizer in the form of an infusion for further replenishment. To do this, the shell of 3 eggs is pounded in a mortar and poured with three liters of water. The mixture is placed in a dark place for several days. The resulting infusion is used for watering both young and adult bell pepper bushes, but it works best on seedlings. It is rich in calcium, which is quickly absorbed by the roots from the soil. Therefore, it helps to strengthen the seedlings and makes them more resilient. This feeding has a cumulative effect. The shell also improves the quality of the soil, which is beneficial for grown vegetables.

Infusion of herbs

For manufacturing, it is convenient to use various weeds growing in the garden. These herbs contain a large amount of nutrients that are so necessary for peppers to form fruits. The infusion will be useful for increasing the fertility of the culture. To prepare it, the leaves of plantain, dandelion, nettle and other herbs are harvested, cut and diluted with water in a 1: 5 ratio. The solution must be allowed to stand for a week before being applied. Each bush will need at least a liter of liquid fertilizer. Carry out this treatment in the morning or evening hours, when there is no scorching sun. It is recommended to choose dry weather for work, otherwise rain will damage the final result.


How to properly feed peppers in a greenhouse and what fertilizers to use

In protected ground conditions, a good harvest of heat-loving vegetable crops can be achieved. In order to understand what types of fertilizers to use for feeding peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you need to know the requirements for soil fertility at different stages of the growing season.


Pepper: varieties and varieties

In this article, we will only talk about those varieties of peppers that belong to the Solanaceae family, are relatives of tomatoes and eggplants. In other cases, pepper belongs to other botanical families, used in the form of spices.

In summer cottages and in industrial vegetable growing, it is customary to cultivate two varieties of plants:

  1. Sweet Bulgarian pepper.
  2. Bitter pepper (chili).
Bell pepper

In indoor floriculture, it is common to grow decorative varieties of pepper (fruits with a bitter taste predominate) with bright fruits of various shapes and a rich palette of colors.

All varieties of peppers are allowed to be eaten in the early stages of maturity (green fruits do not differ at all in the content of nutrients than fully colored ones).


How and how to feed flowers in winter: formulations of dressings

In winter, it is best to water the flowers with liquid fertilizers. So they are evenly distributed in an earthen coma. It is not recommended to use granules, because during this period watering is reduced. The granules will either not be able to completely dissolve, or they will form a strong concentration of substances where they are, and the roots will get burned.

For feeding home flowers, any universal fertilizer that is sold in the store is suitable. There are also specialized fertilizers designed for a specific type of plant. For example: for violets, for roses, for palms, etc. These fertilizers are developed on the basis of knowledge about the needs of a particular plant in certain microelements. Which makes our care easier and gives the best result. For example, violets love fertilizers made from a mixture of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus.

Many plants require a balanced diet of organic and mineral substances. I try to alternate fertilizing from biohumus and universal mineral fertilizers.

Foliar dressing is carried out by spraying the green mass with a nutrient solution. Only plants that are not currently flowering can be fed in this way. Flowers can simply wither and wilt. And in general, they react badly if water gets on them.

Folk remedies and preparations for feeding flowers

Store fertilizer is not always at hand, so experienced flower growers know how to “prepare” fertilizers for indoor flowers with their own hands. Homemade fertilizer options are often more beneficial to flowers and cost little more than the time it takes. By the way, making such fertilizers is pretty quick and easy.

Banana peel fertilizer

You can use the peels themselves or make infusions. It turns out a good potash fertilizer. We have already written about this in this article.

Water from washed cereals (rice, millet, buckwheat, barley)

When cooking, we first soak and rinse all the cereals in water. Usually this water is drained, but microparticles from cereals contain many natural nutrients that can feed plants.

Aquarium water

Every aquarist knows that the water in an aquarium is "alive". It is full of microorganisms that recycle fish waste. The plants in the aquarium are fed by this processing. I also have an aquarium, and I do a weekly water change in it. I water all my indoor plants and seedlings with water from the aquarium. It is a lively, rich and free fertilizer.

Aloe juice solution

Aloe can be found in almost every home. It is a versatile helper for both humans and home flowers. For 2 liters of water, you need 1.5 teaspoons of juice. To prepare the juice, you need to take 1 large aloe leaf, it is better to cut it off from the bottom. Peel the sheet, cut into small pieces and squeeze the juice through cheesecloth. Watering should be carried out only with a freshly prepared solution, because over time, the concentration of nutrients decreases. Aloe juice is a living substance; you can store it in the refrigerator for a short time in a tightly closed container.

Infusion of pomegranate and citrus peels

Fill the peel with warm water and leave for a day. By combining the listed options, you will get the effect no worse than from store-bought drugs. But the benefits will be much greater. It is sustainable, natural and affordable.

Ash solution

We take 1 tablespoon of ash per liter of water, leave for 2 days. Then it is advisable to strain, and add a few grains of potassium permanganate, a couple of drops of iodine. Hydrogen peroxide, succinic acid and nicotinic acid are also used as fertilizers.


Grape specialist

Full member of the Moscow Society of Naturalists, section of viticulture

Experienced winegrower, owner of a vineyard in the Tver region

Personal blog about grapes >>>: Our grapes, and that's all about him

Good afternoon, tell me please, for many inexperienced (including me), over time, the old vine lengthens, and the young shoots farther and farther. This creates inconveniences, including shelter for the winter. I suspect that to solve the problem and do Can a bush be more compact only by grafting, or not? I just think that grafting will not work, and I would not want to lose the bush.

I have a suspicion that you are NOT pruning your vines. And it is necessary, every year before the shelter. For the formation, harvest and convenience of sheltering the grapes, this is necessary. HOW - in a nutshell not to answer, the more you have a bush, as I understand it, running (. Study the question. I have an article in my Blog (see profile) - Cut off all unnecessary. Success.

Hello Olena. Thanks for answering my previous question. Please tell me. My young vines stretched up 2.5 meters or more. Can they now be cut to 2 meters? This is the top of my trellis. Otherwise, I'm worried if my vine can ripen with such a load.

Hello! Don't worry and break the shoots at the height of the top wire. Leaving the broken crown hanging down for now will limit the growth of the stepsons. When the upper part is dry before fracture, but remove it. Good luck.

Hello! Last year I planted 8 cuttings, they took root well, there were 1-2 vines. I sheltered it for the winter (I live in Siberia), but in the spring only one peephole opened on one vine, the rest, despite the fact that the sap flow was active, the vines did not "cry". Now, from the lower buds, I again grow 2 or even 4 green shoots. Please tell me is it worth leaving 4 shoots or deleting up to 2? And there are a lot of stepsons on them, it is worth removing them completely, or just pinching them. I'm afraid of hurting my kidneys. I am still quite a "green" winegrower.

Hello. The winter was not stable, so in many regions the grapes overwintered with problems. I would leave two vines out of 4. Stepchildren remove the rudiments, but if they have already developed, then leave 1 leaf. Good luck.

Hello, my grapes are over 10 years old, I cover for the winter, I cut everything as expected. I gave birth normally that year. This year it grows slowly, young shoots are 25 centimeters long. The leaf is small yellow-green, usually green and large. Tell me what is the reason

Remotely, without seeing, it is difficult to answer. Perhaps it's chlorosis. Feed with iron chelate and micronutrients. Good luck. in

Good day! Tell me. what could be: planted a vine, grew perfectly, in the third year in May-early June, the rudiments of grapes appear and after a while they dry out and die. For the third year in a row. Who gave the vine does not know the answer. The neighbors have grapes growing, but apparently a different variety. I would be grateful for the answer.

If it is permanent, then it is possible that it is a female type of flower and pollination is needed.

I have an early grape, he is already 5 years old, the first time he gave fruit, and in the following years it blooms, but does not tie the fruit, and this year, the color has crumbled and dried up, all! I live in Crimea. What to do?

There are several versions. The first is weather conditions - dryness or, on the contrary, high humidity. Moreover. a) abnormal fertilization, lack of pollination, sterile pollen, unfavorable conditions for its germination and the fertilization process, for example, dry stigma, defects in the anatomical structure of the ovule and embryonic sac (their degeneration), etc. b) arrest of embryonic development and death of the embryo and endosperm at different stages of their embryonic growth c) a reduced concentration of plastic substances in the vine at the time of flowering and during flowering, as well as at the beginning of the setting and growth of berries due to poor carbon assimilation, for example, at low temperatures, fog, foliage damage, etc. and increased inflow of water into the vine, for example, from damp rainy weather, high soil moisture, abundant irrigation, grafting on very powerful rootstocks that impart strong growth to the scion, such as: Rupestris du JIo, Aramon x Rupestris, etc. When ringing under inflorescences, it intensifies the inflow of assimilates to them, and the concentration of plastic substances increases, and therefore stops the development of the separating layer occurs, as well as shedding. At the same time, the berries develop. Much depends on the variety. But Crimea is a different region for me than mine, although several varieties of Golodrigi are growing.

Hello! I bought two new varieties of grapes in the spring. I planted it. Now the buds seem to be alive, swollen, but there is no development. Is it possible to somehow help the plant to form leaves?

Use growth stimulants, in your case, because no leaves, top dressing at the root. Heteroauxin Succinic acid Produced in tablets. ... Gibbersib Stimulates the growth and productivity of plants, especially grapes. Gibberellin Widely used in seedless grape varieties. ... Humate (sodium humate) It is used for rooting cuttings And not only.

Good afternoon, dear Olena. I live in Israel. I have 3 vines on the terrace (planted in large pots). Our temperature is on average 30-35 g (there is a lot of sun on the terrace). The leaf began to turn yellow in chunks from the edge. Not evenly. What could it be? Also, please tell me how many times a week you need to water grapes growing not in the open field. What is the best way to feed him? Thank you in advance

Good afternoon, grape colleague. Your problem may have different causes and therefore different solutions. Firstly, the potted grapes on the terrace should not be watered often, as it is a drought-resistant plant. Overflow can even kill the grapes. Grapes do not like wet earth, as it provokes fungal diseases. And it should not be watered from a watering can or jar onto the ground in a pot, but only into the pan from below. About once a week. The soil in the pot should not be too dense, but rather breathable. Abundant watering is needed only 2 times a year - in the spring after a dormant period, when the grapes wake up, and in late autumn, when the vine is ripe and the plant is getting ready for bed. In winter, water no more than once every 2-3 weeks. Yellow spots on the leaves can be associated not only with overflow, but also with a lack of nutrients, which provokes chlorosis. In this case, it is necessary to help the plant - to feed it not only with nitrogen, but also with microelements in the form of chelates, especially iron chelate. Planned top dressing 1. in early spring. The fertilizer contains potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. I really love Master white, a home remedy option: oh, 5 kg of chicken manure, 5 liters of water, a tablespoon of superphosphate and a tablespoon of ash or potassium monophosphate .. 2nd and 3rd dressing is applied in the summer, even before the berries reach their maximum. We need potassium salts and phosphorus, nitrogen is already less. ... Superphosphate and ash are fine.After harvesting 4 - per season, the grapes are fed with complex fertilizer without nitrogen and chlorine. It is a pity that you did not indicate the variety of your grapes, because a lot also depends on this. It is impossible to foresee everything in the answer. But what she could. In my own collection, there is a young seedling from the monastery of Aelion, presented to my son during a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. But I can only identify this variety after the entry into fruiting. Good luck to you and your grapes.

Hello! Please tell me what to do or how to feed the peppers that have not yet been planted in the greenhouse, but the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Thank you!

Actually, this question is a little off the mark, since I am a grape specialist. But from my experience with peppers, there may be several reasons for the trouble. Pepper seedlings consume a lot of water. It is necessary to ensure that the entire soil is evenly moistened, including its lower layer, so the entire root system receives nutrition and a small supply of moisture is created - until the next watering. Water is brought in based on the dryness of the soil. Excessive watering and stagnation of liquid are unacceptable, otherwise the roots will begin to rot, and the leaves will turn yellow and fall off. In between moistening, the soil should dry out. Watering is done with warm water. Sometimes this also indicates a lack of nutrients. Nitrogen. With a lack of this element, the bush stretches, turns pale, first the tips of the leaves turn yellow, then the whole plate, the crown crumbles, starting from the lower tier. A good result is given by foliar dressing with ammonium nitrate, urea and other nitrogen-containing fertilizers. However, it should be remembered that excess nitrogen has a detrimental effect on pepper seedlings. Therefore, a rather weak concentration: a tablespoon of the substance dissolves in 10 liters of water. The lower leaves can also turn yellow if the nutrition of the pepper is not rich in magnesium, phosphorus. With a lack of potassium, the edges of the leaf plates turn yellow, which then curl downward. And the lack of iron is manifested by yellowing, first of all, of the upper young foliage. If urgent restoration measures are not taken, the bushes will die. I advise you to consult an agronomist for clarification. Good luck.

Hello, I live in Saratov. I wanted to plant the Lily of the Valley variety on an old root. I watched the video on how to do it technically. But an important question remained about the timing of this operation. Regarding sap flow, when is it right to do it?

Grafting into the old root of a grape bush will be successful if the fusion of the rootstock with the scion proceeds evenly, and influx of new cells necessary for fusion (callus) are formed on the combined sections. From this point of view, it is wiser to carry it out either in the spring, from the end of March to the end of May, when the soil temperature warms up to + 10 ° C, and the air heats up optimally to + 15-17 ° C, or in warm autumn - so that the formation of slugs and fusion occurred before the onset of frost. You cannot say in a nutshell about the vaccination technique, but you can read my article on vaccination that interests you http://ampel-nord.ru/vyrashhivanie-vinograda/razmnozhenie-vinograda/privivka-na-raz-dva-privivka-v -staryj-koren / Good luck.

Hello! I live in Voronezh. Can you please tell me if you need to mint annual seedlings? In-those, there is a lot of contradictory information. Do I need to mint grapes "One" while driving in a gazebo formation? Thank you .

One-year-olds do not need to be minted. Only before the shelter do you remove the unripe vine. Formation - starting from 2 years old.

Good day. Please tell me what's wrong with the grapes. I don't remember which variety I bought, but it sat for 10 years and this year, for the first time, bunches were imposed. But spots appeared and it is clear that I got sick with something, although this is not on the kodryanka and on others, the point is in the Donbass region Thank you

Perhaps this variety is unstable for fungi due to its berries. But the harvest is a pity. The universal chemistry Cabrio-Top and Strobi has a rather long waiting period, now it is too late to work with them. Try iodine-added baking soda or other safe drugs to stop the infection.

Good afternoon. I would like to ask a question with a photo. The grape is 10 years old, and only this year has waited for the first brushes, most likely it is white, but! At first, the bunches developed beautifully, but two weeks ago the berries were covered with spots (and the leaves too), some burst, somehow they wanted something, what is it? For comparison, I photographed a Moldavian codrianka, almost ripe, and a late proven, chic tasty variety that ripens already by November, so they don't have this problem. And then they waited with his wife, rejoiced at the appearance of bunches in the tenth year, and they stupidly disappear, what to do?

According to your description, it looks like oidium. Treatment-sulfur, Tiovit-Jet, complex-Strobi. But the last one is only 35 days before the sowing of the crop.

Hello Alena! Please tell me if a bisexual, late ripening rootstock is grafted, whether it is grafted at an early ripening period, a scion. (class wallpaper - bezsem-th). Thank you so much

What question? Is it possible? Can. But it is desirable that the grapes belong to the same species.

Good day! Is it possible to purchase cuttings for growing seedlings by mail? Thank you!

This is, in principle, possible if the vine of the desired varieties matures and if sent by a transport company. Write me an e-mail, tell me the region and wishes. It is listed in the contacts.

Hello! Olena, why do grains (nuts) fall from strawberries?

I'm sorry, but I can't help you. I, as stated above, have specialized in grapes.

Hello! I have those growing. Varyushkin. Last year (the second) of the three bushes, none of them had signaling. This year - the third, there are no clusters, only in some places on the antennae there are several oversized inflorescences. What could be the reason and how to fix it. I cut it off as best I could, unprofessional. The vines are thick 10-12 mm. Nearby grow Levokumsky, Livadiysky, Valiant and TAN 87. All have excellent grape filling and the second and third years. I took the seedlings from Krasokhina.

Varyushkin is an autochthonous Don technical grape variety of the middle late ripening period. In the opinion of colleagues, the signaling is usually given in the 3rd year. So it’s not surprising. Wait for the next harvest. In the meantime, feed, especially with micronutrients. Now the fruit buds of the next year are just being laid. Well, and pruning should be studied, you probably know the main principles.

And water! This particular grape variety is very sensitive to lack of soil moisture.

Hello! the tips of the grape leaves turn black, is it a disease or the grapes are missing something? Thank you

In a seedling at the rooting stage, this usually indicates damage to the roots, more often the roots rot from overflow and, accordingly, lack of air. Then it is better to make holes in the side walls - with a thick nail, for example. If in the exhaust gas, then there may be a burn and a fungal disease. - for example anthracnose ... Then Fungicide Antracol or Cabrio "Top according to the scheme and Epin for recovery. All the best.

Dear Olena, the essence of the problem is that the buds did not wake up after winter on different wine bushes in different ways. I made a mistake in the summer of 2018, the growth point and stepsons were removed, which provoked the awakening of the buds that were supposed to give a crop this year. Maybe that's why I was left without a crop. The question is what to do with dormant vines, if pruning, then when? The second question is why the buds of the replacement shoots did not wake up, I cut them short only in the fall for 4 buds, maybe because of the holes that I showed in the photo, they are formed precisely on the replacement shoots, but not through and no pests (bugs, etc. .) I did not find. In autumn, the bushes are treated with Iron vitriol and preparations containing copper. The berries were not damaged, the bushes were well covered for the winter (covering material) Sincerely Sergey.

The vine is crying, so there is a consumption of micro-elements, is it necessary at this moment to feed or just water? If so, how best to do it. Thank you.


Top dressing of cucumber seedlings

As soon as the first true leaf appears on the cucumbers, they are fed with organic matter mixed with superphosphate. As an organic fertilizer, you can take slurry (1: 1), which is diluted in a bucket of water. Superphosphate for a bucket of water will need 20 grams.

If there is no organic matter, then you can prepare the following nutritional composition in 5 liters of water:

  • potassium sulfate - 4 grams
  • superphosphate - 8 grams
  • ammonium nitrate - 3.5 grams.

Of the ready-made complex fertilizers, sodium humate, potassium humate and Effekton are suitable (1 tbsp. L. For 1 bucket of water).

The second and third feed can be produced from the same mineral fertilizers, which will be needed twice as much. The solution should be more concentrated.

If the seedlings of cucumbers grow in a greenhouse, then spraying with weakly concentrated solutions of trace elements is very useful for it.


Technical implementation of dressings

When to feed

The feeding scheme depends on how, with what and when the soil was fertilized. If in the fall the soil was flavored with compost or humus, and in the spring - with mineral fertilizers, then you can feed your peppers much less often. Plants in small greenhouses can be fertilized every 15-20 days.

First feeding

The first feeding of sweet peppers is usually done 15 days after planting in the soil. During this time, she will be ready to receive fertilizers. For feeding, you can use the above recipe with urea: 5 g of superphosphate and 10 g of urea per bucket of water.

Second feeding

It is carried out during the ripening of the sweet pepper flower buds. At this time, the plant needs potassium, so we use the following composition: 1 tsp. potassium, 1 tsp. urea, 2 tbsp. superphosphate in a bucket of water.

Foliar dressing

This type of feeding has a number of incomparable advantages: it significantly thickens the stalk of sweet pepper and increases the mass of leaves, flower buds are formed more abundantly.

It is necessary to observe some conditions for foliar feeding:

  • it is better to do it in cloudy weather
  • air temperature no more than 22 degrees Celsius
  • stomata are open on the leaves of the plant.

For foliar feeding, make the following mixture:

  • potassium sulfate (solution 1%)
  • superphosphate (solution 2%). This substance is poorly soluble in water, so it needs to be infused for a day or stirred in boiling water for 15 minutes.
  • urea (solution 2%).

Organic lovers can also use a well-known folk remedy - infusion of weeds or nettle. It is important to pay attention to the inner surface of the leaves, there is a more porous structure and microelements are better absorbed.


Watch the video: Indian Salad Dressing