Vegetable Garden Weed Control For A Garden: A Step By Step Guide For Weeding

Vegetable Garden Weed Control For A Garden: A Step By Step Guide For Weeding

By: Heather Rhoades

Perhaps one of the most frustrating and tedious tasks that a gardener must do is weeding. Vegetable garden weeding is necessary to help get the biggest harvest possible, but some days it may seem like the weeds grow faster than you can pull them out. Knowing how to weed the garden correctly is essential to reducing how often you have to do this tiresome chore.

How to Weed the Garden Properly

A large number of gardeners don’t weed their garden correctly. It’s a sad truth, because when they weed improperly, they are only making more work for themselves. Efficient vegetable garden weeding can almost be considered a learned skill.

The number one mistake that many gardeners make when weeding the garden is that they don’t pull the weed out correctly. Many gardeners approach weeding with a grab and snatch technique that snaps the stems of the weeds and leaves the roots behind in the ground. Most common weeds can regrow rapidly from their roots. So when you get that feeling that the undesirable plants are growing as fast as you can weed them out, that is, in fact, what is happening.

The correct way to pull a weed is to use a pinch and pull method. Pinch the weed close to the base of the weed plant and gently, but firmly, pull the weed out of the ground. At least some (and hopefully all) of the roots will come away with the weed plant. At first you may see many weeds snap at the stems, as they do with the grab and snatch method, but as you do it more, you will get a feel for how much of a gentle pull will remove the roots from the ground without breaking the stem.

How Often Should You Weed a Garden?

You should weed your garden about once a week. Timing is important when it comes to weed control in the garden for several reasons.

First, young weeds with roots that haven’t yet developed well are much easier to pull out of the ground than weeds that are fully mature. Weekly weeding will help you get all those baby weeds out easily.

Second, frequent weeding will help get rid of difficult weeds. No matter how hard you try, you won’t be able to get the entire roots of some weeds. For example, dandelions and Canada thistle plants have taproots that can go down several feet (1 m.). By constantly pulling the top few inches (8 cm.) of root, you remove their ability to get sunlight which will eventually deplete their stores of energy and they will essentially die from lack of sunlight.

Third, you don’t want any of the weeds in your garden to reach seeding maturity. When weeds go to seed, you’ll end up with hundreds more weeds (and more weeding!). Weekly weeding will keep the weeds in your garden from ever being able to produce seeds.

Best Time for Weeding a Garden

The best time when to weed a garden is ideally after a rainstorm or after watering with the garden hose. The ground will be wet and the roots of the weeds will come out of the ground more easily.

Weeding your garden in the morning, before the dew has dried, is also a good time to weed. While the soil will not be as soft as it would be after a rainfall or after watering, it will still be softer than later in the afternoon.

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Weed Control In The Vegetable Garden

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If you have a garden, I’m sure you’re almost tired of weeding already. I know I am! I’ve been working on coming up with systems for weed control in my garden. But since it’s so big (about a quarter acre), it’s been a challenge. Today I want to share with you some tips to help with weed control in the garden.

First of all, I want to tell you that I’m far from an expert at controlling weeds. I have always struggled with having the time, or the energy, or the willpower to go out and weed the garden when it’s almost 100 degrees most of the summer. And I’m not getting any younger!

Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE gardening. It’s one of my happy places! But I don’t do so well in the heat. That means that I usually have to get up earlier than I normally do to weed the garden. And I’m not much of a morning person.

So, short of hiring a gardener to do my weeding for me (haha, right!), I need to come up with ways to do less weeding.


Control Annual Weeds

Lamb's quarters is a beautiful and very edible weed that tastes great in salads when picked young.

Now that the vegetable garden is all planted, not only are your seeded squash, cucumbers, lettuces, beans, and carrots coming up, so are the weeds. There are perennial and annual weeds in most gardens. The perennial weeds, such as dandelions and quack grass, come up every spring, usually before you even get into the garden to plant. Annual weeds, such as lamb's quarters, purslane, galinsoga, and redroot pigweed (amaranth), are more opportunistic. There are literarily thousands of weed seeds in most garden soils. When you disturb the soil to plant, you are bringing weed seeds to the soil surface where light and warmth allow them to germinate. Plus, you can be bringing weed seed into your garden from compost or manures.

To control perennial weeds you need to dig them out — root and all. I won't be tackling that issue here. Annual weeds can be easier to control if you stay on top of the situation. Here are my 10 steps for controlling annual weeds in your vegetable garden.

When weeding, try not to dig deeper than a few inches into the soil to avoid bringing weed seeds to the surface to germinate.

1. Don't Till – While most gardeners are already planted, this is a good reminder for next year's garden and for gardeners who use a rototiller to weed between rows. The more you till, the more weed seeds are brought to the soil surface to germinate. Consider moving to a low or no till gardening system to keep the weed seeds buried. Also, avoid adding partially decomposed manures to your garden. Some, such as horse manure, can contain lots of weed seed. Lee Reich's book, Weedless Gardening (Workman, 2001) is a great guide to no-till gardening.

2. Identify Your Weed – Know the weed you're dealing with before you start pulling or hoeing. Make sure it's a weed and not one of your vegetable seedlings. Check out the Weed Library for proper weed identification.

3. Weed Early – If you weed early in the season,, you'll have fewer problems later in the growing season. Remove annual weeds before they reach 3 inches tall. Preferably on a sunny day, using a sharp-edged hoe, gently slice the weeds just below the soil surface to kill them. The sun will help kill the weeds so they don't resprout. Slicing the weeds less than 2 inches below the surface will avoid bringing more weed seeds to the surface.

Buckwheat is a good cover crop to smother weeds and build the organic matter in your soil.

4. Grow Weed Smothering Crops – Some vegetables compete better with weeds than others and once established, will be able to smother annual weeds. Crops such as tomatoes, squash, melons, potatoes, cabbage, and beans grow quickly in warm soils and can outgrow the weeds. Plus, they are large enough to shade out weeds growing later in the season. Vegetables such as lettuce, carrots, onions and radishes don't compete well with weeds and your yields will be reduced if you don't weed well early and often..

5. Add Organic Mulches – Once you've weeded a few times and your plants have germinated and are growing vigorously, consider adding an organic mulch. Organic mulches such as straw, pine straw, bark mulch, grass clippings from untreated lawns, and chopped leaves will keep the soil cool, moist, and less weedy while adding organic matter to the soil as they break down. Avoid using hay because it has weed seeds in it. Add a 2- to 3-inch thick layer of mulch around established plants. Organic mulches are best used on cool season vegetables, such as broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, and peas. If you are going to use them on warm season vegetables such as tomatoes, melons, peppers, and beans, wait until the soil has warmed into the 60Fs before applying the mulch.

6. Add Inorganic Mulch – Another way to mulch is to lay black, green, or red plastic mulch down on the beds before planting. These inorganic mulches warm the soil by 6 to 8 degrees and by poking holes and planting right into the mulch, the roots can take advantage of the warm soil and the plants will grow faster. They also keep weeds from germinating. It's best to run a soaker hose or drip irrigation line under the plastic mulch to keep the plants well watered. Most plastic mulches can be reused for 2 to 3 years if you're careful when pulling them up in fall.

Mulch with straw after weeding to keep the soil moist and prevent more weeds from growing.

7. Mulch Pathways – There's no reason to be weeding pathways. Pathways between rows of crops can be mulched at planting with any material that will prevent weed growth. Cardboard, bark mulch, straw, even old rugs can be used to stop weed growth. Some of the heavier materials, such as cardboard and old rugs, will not break down quickly and may need to be removed come fall.

8. Don't Let Weeds Go to Seed – Weed plants can reproduce prolifically. For example, one plant of redroot pigweed can produce more than 100,000 seeds in one season. If you get behind in your weeding, at least cut them down to prevent weed seeds from forming.

9. Grow Cover Crops – If you're battling lots of annual weeds in your garden, consider growing a cover crop to smother them and add organic matter to the soil. Buckwheat is a fast growing cover crop that will smother weeds. Consider planting winter rye in the fall, then turning it under in spring. The residue has been known to reduce pigweed, purslane, and lamb's quarter seed germination rates by 75%.

10. Eat Your Weeds – Weeds aren't all bad. After all, the definition of a weed is a plant growing in the wrong place. Many weeds are edible and taste great. Harvest lamb's quarters, purslane, and pigweed when they are young and add them to salads. Mix chickweed in with basil and parsley to make a great pesto.

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Charlie Nardozzi is an award winning, nationally recognized garden writer, speaker, radio, and television personality. He has worked for more than 30 years bringing expert gardening information to home gardeners through radio, television, talks, tours, on-line, and the printed page. Charlie delights in making gardening information simple, easy, fun and accessible to everyone. He's the author of 6 books, has three radio shows in New England and a TV show. He leads Garden Tours around the world and consults with organizations and companies about gardening programs. See more about him at Gardening With Charlie.

Weed Killers

The best method of removing weeds is always by hand, but if this is not a practical solution for you, then weed killers can get the job done effectively. Please contact your County Extension Service in your area for reccomendations.

The most important thing to keep in mind when weeding is that there are many solutions to effectively weed your garden, but consistency is the key. Whether this is hand weeding, controlling weeds with film, or the use of weed killers, finding the best solution for your garden and consistently sticking it to the weeds will net you a healthy, weed free growing environment for your plants.

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Watch the video: Vegetable Garden Weed Control Tips and Garden Update - How to Get Rid of Weeds in Vegetable Garden