Variety of raspberry varieties: early, late, large-fruited, etc.

Variety of raspberry varieties: early, late, large-fruited, etc.

Raspberries are a berry loved by both adults and children. It is very difficult to find a home plot that does not have at least a few bushes. Planting care will not require anything supernatural from the gardener. But first you need to choose the right variety, otherwise all efforts will be wasted. In addition to the traditional red raspberry, familiar to everyone, there is also black and yellow. Some prefer the time-tested varieties, others prefer to plant new items that have just appeared on sale.

How to choose a raspberry variety for a specific region

The key to the future bountiful harvest of raspberries is a competent choice of varieties. It is necessary to pay attention not only to such qualities as the appearance, size and taste of berries, but also to frost resistance, the presence of immunity against various diseases, the ability to withstand heat, drought, and temperature extremes. Otherwise, even with proper agricultural technology, it will not be possible to achieve the yield indicators declared by the originator of the variety.

Sometimes choosing a raspberry variety for a gardener is the hardest part.

Gardeners from the south of Russia and Ukraine were most fortunate with the climate. The long warm summer allows them to grow almost any kind of raspberry. Most often, for cultivation in such weather conditions, new selection is chosen, characterized by large-fruited (and, as a result, high yield) and excellent taste. Other important criteria influencing the choice are resistance to heat, drought, the ability to tolerate waterlogging of the substrate. Among gardeners' favorite varieties of raspberries:

  • Pride of Russia,
  • Brigantine.

Of the repairmen:

  • Crane,
  • Indian Summer (and its clone - Indian Summer 2),
  • Eurasia,
  • Penguin,
  • Firebird.

In the fall, they bring crops until the first frost, which comes quite late here.

The climate in the Moscow region and in the European part of Russia is rather mild. But even there winters can be harsh and little snow, and summers can be cloudy and cool. Therefore, in order not to be left without a crop, it is recommended to give preference to varieties of medium early or medium ripening period, which are characterized by massive ripening of berries. This minimizes the risk of the crop getting under early autumn frosts. They are also suitable for the east and west of Ukraine. In the North-West region, it is desirable to additionally focus on the presence of immunity against all types of rot. The development of this disease is often provoked by moist cold air. Local gardeners often choose from large-fruited varieties:


  • Arbat,
  • Maroseyka,
  • The yellow giant.

Repaired varieties are also popular:

  • Orange miracle
  • Bryansk miracle,
  • Hercules,
  • Polka.

Siberia, the Urals and the Far East are deservedly nicknamed the regions of risky agriculture. It is unlikely that raspberries native to Europe and the USA will survive in the harsh conditions of the local climate. It is imperative to plant zoned varieties there. They are distinguished by frost resistance and early ripening, bringing the harvest in mid-July. Equally important is the presence of immunity to diseases typical of the culture. These qualities are possessed by both old proven varieties and some of the latest achievements of breeders, which are not inferior in taste to southern raspberries. This is, for example:

  • Kirzhach,
  • Modest,
  • Diamond,
  • Hussar.

Of the repairmen:

  • Atlant,
  • Monomakh's hat.

The right choice of raspberry variety is the key to a bountiful harvest

The best large-fruited varieties

Large-fruited varieties of raspberries are those whose berries weigh 3–12 g. But there are also varieties that exceed these indicators.Their weight of one fruit can reach 18–20 g. As a result, these varieties are characterized by high yields. They are not without drawbacks. This, for example, is insufficient for most regions of Russia cold resistance and relatively poor immunity.


Husar variety from the early ripening category. Recognized as suitable for growing in the European part of Russia - from the Caucasus to the North-West region. It is appreciated for its unpretentious care, productivity, almost does not suffer with a moisture deficit. The variety tolerates cool summer weather well. Also, raspberry Gusar relatively rarely suffers from viral (mosaic, dwarf, curly leaves, witch's broom) and fungal (anthracnose, septoria, rust, gray rot, purple spot) diseases typical of the culture, and is rarely attacked by pests.

Gusar raspberries tolerate drought well

The bush is 1.8–2 m high, spreading. The shoots are powerful, vertical. Thorns are few in number, covering the lower third of the branches. The average weight of a berry is 4–5 g, some specimens - up to 10–12 g. The yield is high - up to 16 kg per bush. The taste is rated at 4.2 points out of five.


The variety is zoned for Eastern Siberia, and is also suitable for cultivation in the Black Sea region. By the timing of the ripening of the crop refers to the middle late. Demonstrates good frost resistance (at -30 ° C), practically does not suffer from bark damping. It is immune to anthracnose, purple spot. The spider mite practically does not pay attention to this raspberry.

In raspberries of the Brigantine variety, the bark in winter and spring is extremely rare.

The bush is about 1.5 m high. There are not too many shoots. The thorns are thick, covering the branches along their entire length. Berries weighing 3.2 g. The characteristic raspberry aroma is practically absent. The taste is sweet and sour, the tasting score is 3.9 points. The content of vitamin C is low - 25 mg per 100 g. Productivity - 2.5 kg per bush.


A very popular remontant variety, recommended for cultivation in the Central Region. It takes root well in Ukraine and Belarus. It does not suffer from rot, pests do not show much interest in it. The variety tolerates an abundance of rainfall well.

Hercules raspberries require careful preparation for winter

This raspberry requires shelter for the winter if it is predicted to have little snow, but it is important not to overdo it with it. The roots are easy to undermine, the bush dies. The frost resistance of the variety is average, up to -21 ° С.

The bush is not particularly large, the shoots are vertical or slightly dull. They are powerful, even under the weight of the harvest they do not bend. The average height is 1.5–2 m. The ability to shoot shoots is low. Thick thorns cover the entire length of the branches.

The average weight of the berries is 6.8 g. The pulp is not too dense, aromatic. The content of vitamin C is quite high - 32 mg per 100 g, so the berries are noticeably sour. Nevertheless, the Hercules variety earned 4 points from professional tasters. But practice shows that the further north this raspberry is planted, the lower the yield. Also, with a lack of light and heat, taste worsens. It also strongly depends on the quality of the substrate. Productivity - 2.5-3.5 kg per bush.

Monomakh's hat

The variety recommended by the author for cultivation in central Russia, especially in the Moscow region. Monomakh's hat endures local winters without noticeable damage. You can plant it beyond the Urals, but you will definitely need a shelter to protect it from frost. The advantages of raspberries are high yield and wonderful taste of berries. It is relatively rarely affected by pests, but it is always susceptible to viral and bacterial diseases, and fungal - if the summer is cool and rainy.

A significant drawback of raspberries of the Shapka Monomakh variety is susceptibility to diseases

The height of the bush does not exceed 1.5 m. Due to the powerful, intensively branching shoots, it resembles a small tree. There are few thorns, they are concentrated at the base of the branches.The average weight of berries is about 7 g, some specimens are up to 20 g (about with a plum). The size of the raspberry is greatly influenced by watering. The pulp is very sweet and juicy, but elastic, which leads to good transportability. The average yield is 4.5–5 kg, in particularly favorable seasons in terms of weather this figure reaches 8 kg. The beginning of fruiting occurs in the second decade of August.


The Eurasia variety is a relatively recent achievement of breeders. Repaired raspberry, medium ripening. It tolerates drought well, somewhat worse, but also not bad - heat. It is relatively rarely affected by diseases and pests. It does not make high demands on the quality of the substrate. The variety shows good transportability.

Eurasia raspberries can be harvested not only by hand

The shrub is about 1.3–1.6 m high, standard. These raspberries can be grown without trellis. The branches are covered with thorns along the entire length, but there are noticeably more of them at the base.

The berries weigh 3.6–4.5 g. The drupes are firmly fastened, easily detached from the stalk. The pulp is sweet and sour (vitamin C content - 34.9 mg per 100 g), practically devoid of aroma. The taste is rated at 3.9 points by professionals. Average yield - up to 2.6 kg per bush.

Video: raspberry variety Eurasia


The Senator variety is not remontant, the ripening time of the berries is average. Resistant to fruit rot, demanding lighting. This raspberry reacts very negatively to moisture deficiency and waterlogging. The variety is characterized by a certain instability in terms of genetics - if you do not cut the bushes and do not apply fertilizers, the berries become smaller, the taste is lost.

Senator raspberries cannot boast of varietal resistance

The bush reaches a height of 1.8 m. The shoots are powerful. New shoots are being formed quite actively. There are no thorns. Winter hardiness up to -35 ° С.

The average weight of a berry is 7–12 g. Some specimens are about 15 g. Drupes are small, firmly linked. Raspberries tolerate transportation well. The taste deserves only positive reviews - the fruits are very juicy and sweet. The yield is not bad - about 4.5 kg per bush.

Pride of Russia (Giant)

The variety is not remontant, medium early. It is successfully cultivated throughout Russia. The crop ripens in the last decade of June or early July - it depends on the weather. Fruiting is extended, lasts until mid-August. The crop is harvested in 5-6 receptions. The variety has immunity against diseases typical for the culture (anthracnose, septoria), the most dangerous pest is aphids.

Of all the pests, the most harm to raspberries of the Pride of Russia variety is caused by aphids

The height of the bush is 1.7-1.9 m. The shoots are powerful, erect. Frost resistance up to -30 ° С. The variety also tolerates heat well, raspberries are not baked. But sudden changes in temperature are harmful to her.

The berries weigh 8–12 g. With competent agricultural techniques, the weight increases to 15–20 g. The surface is uneven, as if bumpy. If it is cold and damp in summer, the fruits often grow together in two. The yield is above average - 5–6 kg per bush. The pulp is very tender and juicy, the taste is balanced, sweet and sour. But with a deficiency of heat and nutrients, the berries strongly acidify, lose their aroma. This raspberry does not tolerate transportation, it is stored for no more than a day.

Shelf (Polka)

As you might guess, this raspberry comes from Poland. A remontant variety, widely grown on an industrial scale due to its profitability. Winter hardiness is quite low, up to -20 ° C. Heat above 35 ° C and direct sunlight also does not tolerate well, even if properly watered. Roots most often suffer from diseases (rot, bacterial cancer).

The weak point in the Polka raspberry variety is the roots, it is they who most often suffer from diseases

The height of the bush is 1.5–1.8 m. The thorns are not numerous, soft. Fruiting begins at the end of July, lasts until the first frost and even when the temperature drops to -2 ° C.

The average weight of a berry is 3-5 g. Subject to proper fertilization - up to 6 g. The pulp is dense.The aroma is pleasant, delicate. The bones are very small, the drupes are firmly linked. Raspberries do not rot, ripe, firmly adheres to the bush. Productivity - up to 4 kg per bush.


Brilliant remontantny variety, recognized as the most suitable for cultivation in the Central region. It tolerates heat well, drought is somewhat worse. The variety is very picky about lighting - with a lack of light, the fruits become very shallow, the yield decreases. On average, you can count on 2.5-4 kg per bush. Good winter hardiness.

Raspberries of the Brilliantova variety are planted only in open sunny areas.

The bush is of medium height, spreading. The branches are slightly drooping under the weight of the fruit, but do not fall on the ground. There are few thorns, they are rather soft, located mainly at the base of the shoot.

Berries weighing 4.1 g. The seeds are large. The pulp is sweet, with a slight sourness, almost no aroma. The content of vitamin C is low - 20.5 mg per 100 g. The taste is estimated by the tasters at 4 points.

Video: an overview of the varieties of raspberry Diamond, Penguin

Indian summer

Variety Indian Summer from the category of remontant. Berries begin to shoot in the second half of August. Suitable for growing throughout the European part of Russia - from the Caucasus to the North-West region.

The low yield of raspberries of the Indian Summer variety is compensated by the excellent taste of berries

The height of an erect bush is 1–1.5 m. The shoots are intensively branching. Of the diseases, the most dangerous are powdery mildew and purple spot, of the pests - the spider mite. There is immunity to the virus of curl and gray rot. The yield is relatively low - 1 kg per bush. Fruits of very good taste (score 4.5 points), size - medium to large (2.1-3 g). The content of vitamin C is 30 mg per 100 g.


Kirzhach is a popular medium-ripening variety. Winter hardiness allows you to cultivate it throughout the European part of Russia. Thaws don't cause him much trouble. Not picky about the quality of the substrate. Of the pests, the most dangerous is the raspberry beetle, of the diseases - root cancer and the overgrowth virus. The variety is not insured against anthracnose either.

When growing raspberries of the Kirzhach variety, special attention should be paid to the prevention of the appearance of a raspberry beetle.

The bush is high (2.5 m or more), the shoots are powerful, vertical. Medium-sized berries (2.2-3 g). The taste is rated quite high - 4.3 points. The bones are small, the drupes are firmly linked.

Early raspberry

Such varieties are in demand by gardeners in the Urals and Siberia. Early fruiting is a kind of guarantee that the crop will have time to ripen before the first frost.


A remontant variety, recommended for the Middle Volga region. Also suitable for the central regions of Ukraine and Belarus. The bush is high (1.7–2 m), powerful, but does not spread. Shoots are almost vertical. Forms new branches not too willingly. Spines are sharp, few in number, concentrated at the base. Immunity is good, but not absolute.

The taste qualities of Zhuravlik raspberries are highly appreciated by professionals.

Berry weight - about 2 g. Drupes are small. The pulp is very tender, sweet, with a barely perceptible sourness. The taste is rated at 4.7 points. Productivity - about 2 kg. Long-term fruiting.


The non-remontant variety Solnyshko shows its qualities in the best way when grown in the Central region. Raspberry is early, winter hardy. Does not suffer from anthracnose and spider mites. The most dangerous for it are overgrowth and purple spot, of the pests - the shoot gall midge.

Raspberries of the Solnyshko variety are easy to identify by the arched tops of the shoots

The height of the bush is 1.8–2.2 m, the plant is powerful. There are few spikes, they are not very hard. The berries weigh 3.5–4.5 g each. The taste was rated 4.3 points. The aroma is very bright and intense. The pulp is tender, transparent ruby. The yield is low - about 1.5 kg.


The first Russian variety with an innate immunity to the most common viral diseases (leaf mosaic, dwarfism, witch's broom). There are no thorns. Raspberries of the Aboriginal variety are distinguished by good transportability. Belongs to the category of early. Average winter hardiness, up to -25 ° C. But it is characterized by resistance to septoria, anthracnose, all types of rot.

Raspberry variety Aboriginal does not suffer from viral diseases typical for the culture

The bushes reach a height of 2.5 m. The shoots are very powerful, in the winter they cannot be bent to the ground, therefore the tops often freeze, but this practically does not affect fruiting in the next season.

The berries weigh 8–14 g each and are often doubled. Average yield is 6–8 kg. Provided that organic fertilizers are applied in the required doses, it increases by 1.5–2 times. The taste is sweet and sour, the aroma is pronounced. The pulp is dense, the drupes are small.


Alyonushka is a very unpretentious variety with high immunity. The fruiting period stretches from the end of June to the first frost. Cold resistance up to -30 ° С. The bush is 2–2.5 m high. Shoots are erect, intensively branching. Thorns are short, rather sparse, located along the entire length of the branch.

Raspberries of the Alyonushka variety bear fruit for a very long time

The average weight of a berry is 5-6 g. But such a raspberry is obtained only with competent agricultural technology and a suitable substrate. The berries are dense, the drupes are large. The content of vitamin C is almost a record - 42.8 mg per 100 g. The taste is estimated at 4.5 points.


Faith is cultivated mainly in the Volga region. The variety does not differ in high frost and drought resistance. Shoot gall midge is indifferent to it, but the plant is often affected by purple spot. Fruiting is amicable, the berries do not fall from the bush for a long time. Transportability and keeping quality are not very good.

Shoot gall midge is the appearance on raspberry shoots of neoplasms caused by parasitic organisms. In raspberries, the stems are also affected by gall midges, rarely overgrowth.

Of the diseases for raspberries of the Vera variety, purple spot is the most dangerous

The bush is 1.2–1.5 m high, semi-spreading. The branches bend easily. The spines run along the entire length, but they are rather thin and soft. The harvest ripens in the first half of July. You can count on 1.6-3 kg. It depends on the watering.

The berries are smallish (1.8–2.7 g). The drupes are loosely linked. The taste is not bad, sweet and sour, but it was rated only 3.5 points.


The repairing variety Penguin is one of the first in this category to harvest. There are no restrictions on the growing region. Immunity against diseases and pests is good. Frost resistance up to -25 ° С.

A distinctive feature of the Penguin raspberry variety is a very early onset of fruiting.

Shrub up to 1.5 m high, standard. The thorns are mainly located at the bottom of the shoots. The berry weight is 4.2–6.5 g. The content of vitamin C is record-breaking - 62 mg. The pulp is slightly watery, sweet and sour, devoid of a characteristic aroma. The taste is highly dependent on the quality of the soil. The yield is not bad - about 6 kg.

Beauty of Russia

The beauty of Russia is not a remontant, very unpretentious variety. During fruiting, the bush looks unusual - berries the size of a small plum are collected in a brush. The aroma is very strong. Productivity - 4.5 kg. The first fruits are harvested at the beginning of July, they finish harvesting somewhere in 1.5 months. The berry weighs 10-12 g.

Raspberry Krasa Russia is a large-fruited, very unpretentious variety in care.

Frost resistance without shelter - up to -25 ºС, if you take care of protection from autumn, the bush is not afraid of even the most severe cold. He does not need frequent watering - a powerful root system provides him with everything he needs. The bush is quite compact - up to 1.5 m in height, vertical shoots.

The main disadvantage is the very short shelf life. Raspberries need to be processed literally within hours of being harvested. In damp cold weather, the bushes are often affected by rot and brown spots.

Varieties without thorns

Raspberries without thorns are especially appreciated by gardeners. This feature greatly facilitates harvesting.


This variety, due to the appearance of the bush, is often called the raspberry tree. Very thick vertical shoots completely devoid of thorns. A lot of root growth is formed. Height - up to 1.5 m.

The bush of the Tarusa raspberry is not tall, but its configuration is very similar to a tree

The plant reacts very negatively to waterlogging of the soil. Frost resistance up to -30 ° С. The harvest ripens in the second half of July, you can count on 4 or more kg per bush. Fruiting lasts until the end of August. Immunity is good.

The berries weigh 7–10 g. Crooked fruits, specimens with double stalks, are not uncommon. Taste qualities are rather mediocre, but the berries are presentable, they are distinguished by good transportability. The crop can be severely affected by winds.


Maroseyka is the first thornless raspberry bred in Russia. It is valued for its high immunity, general unpretentiousness in care, consistently high yield, even if the summer is rainy and cold, large-fruited, high sugar content and pronounced aroma of berries. This raspberry is best suited for growing in central Russia. For cultivation in regions with a more severe and hot climate, it lacks frost and drought resistance.

Raspberries of the Maroseyka variety do not tolerate both cold and heat

The height of the spreading bush is 1.5–1.7 m, the shoots are drooping, intensively branching. Fruiting begins in the first half of July and lasts until the end of August. The average yield is 4–5 kg, subject to the timely application of fertilizers in the required doses - 6 kg or more.

The weight of the berry is 8–12 g. Double specimens are often found. The taste is sweet, very good.

Moscow giant

Raspberry bush Moscow giant fully justifies the name - the plant is very powerful, reaching a height of 2 m or more. Shoots are vertical, thick, leaves are large. The variety is considered semi-renovated. Shoots of this season bear fruit closer to autumn, but only at the tops. On the bottom of them, raspberries are tied for next year.

Raspberry varieties Moscow giant fully corresponds to the name

The yield is very high - 10–12 kg. Keeping quality and transportability not bad for the berry makes the variety interesting for professional farmers. Raspberries taste very sweet, juicy and aromatic. The berries reach a weight of 25 g.


The Patricia variety is not remontant, fruiting extends from the second half of June to the end of August. Raspberry is high-yielding, large-fruited. The taste and aroma of berries is beyond praise. Also, the variety is valued for its frost resistance down to -34 ° C. The berries are not baked in the sun. The variety is immune to anthracnose and is relatively rarely affected by other diseases.

Raspberry varieties Patricia - one of the most popular varieties among Russian gardeners

Not devoid of variety and disadvantages. Most often they include:

  • bush height (1.8 m or more);
  • the need for regular pruning due to the active growth of old and the formation of new shoots;
  • the tendency of berries to rot in high humidity conditions;
  • low transportability.

Berry weight - 12-14 g. Characterized by a rich aroma. The percentage of twisted, twisted berries is quite high. Productivity - 8 kg per bush or more.

Video: raspberry varieties Patricia


Raspberry Modest, medium ripening, cultivated in central Russia and Western Siberia. Good frost resistance (up to -30 ºС), raspberries do not suffer from drought. The cultivar is immune to anthracnose, but often suffers from gray rot. Of the pests, the spider mite is the most dangerous.

In damp, cool weather, raspberries of the Shkromnitsa variety almost inevitably become infected with gray rot.

The bush reaches a height of 2 m, slightly spreading. Shoots are vertical, intensively branching. The thorns are located only at their base, they seem to be smoothed. Productivity - 2.2 kg. Fruiting is amicable.

The berries are relatively small (2.5–2.9 g). The pulp is very dense, completely devoid of aroma. The taste cannot be called outstanding, but the tasters rated it at 4.2 points.

Breeding novelties

Selection does not stand still. New varieties of raspberries are constantly appearing. The creators declare record sizes, excellent taste of berries, the highest yield, the presence of absolute immunity against diseases, and so on. Gardeners are enthusiastic about trying new products. And although not all information is confirmed in practice, many varieties are quickly gaining popularity.


Atlant is a mid-season remontant variety. It tolerates drought very well (due to the developed root system), somewhat worse - heat. There is immunity against diseases typical of culture, but not absolute.

The Atlant raspberry variety has a very strong root system.

The bush is high (more than 2 m), powerful, the shoots are almost vertical, there are few of them. The thorns are rather sharp, concentrated at the base of the branches. The fruiting period stretches for about a month, begins in the first decade of August. You can count on 2.5 kg per bush.

Read more about the variety in our article: Description and features of growing Atlant remontant raspberries.

The average weight of the berries is 4.7 g, the maximum is 8.8 g. The content of vitamin C is high - more than 45 mg per 100 g. The pulp is not too dense, aromatic, the taste is estimated at 4.2 points.


Polana is another cultivar originally from Poland. It stands out for the unusual purple-pink color of the berries. They are quite large - 3-5 g. The taste strongly depends on how sunny the summer was. With a lack of light, raspberries become noticeably sour. The quality of the fruit also depends on the soil. The best option is black soil or sandy loam.

The taste of Polana raspberries is strongly influenced by the quality of the soil and the lack of light.

The yield is not bad - about 4 kg. Fruiting lasts from the last decade of July to October. The variety is also valued for its good transportability and keeping quality. This raspberry tolerates cold up to -32 ºС, but it is still not recommended to plant it in the northern regions. The roots hardly suffer from frost, which cannot be said about the shoots.

The height of the bush is 1.6–1.8 m. The shoots are powerful, without thorns. As a disadvantage, the very active growth of root shoots and drying of branches in the heat are noted.


The bushes of the mid-early Arbat raspberry variety are quite powerful, spreading, the height reaches 1.5-2 cm. Shoots devoid of thorns inThey look decorative - the leaves are neat, strongly corrugated, with grooved edges. The average weight of a berry is 12 g, many specimens weighing 15–18 g. The pulp is juicy, nevertheless, they tolerate transportation well. The taste is sweet, balanced.

Raspberries of the Arbat variety are planted not only for the sake of the future harvest, but also to decorate the site

Plant immunity is good, but not absolute. Fruiting lasts about one and a half months, begins in the second half of July. Productivity - about 4 kg per bush. With regular fertilization with natural organic matter, it increases by 1.5–2 times. Frost resistance up to -30 ºС.


The Generalissimo variety belongs to the large-fruited category. Shoots are very powerful, thick, sharp thorns dotted along their entire length. The variety has good immunity.

Generalissimo raspberries need regular pruning

The average yield is 5–6 kg. With the help of competent pruning, the indicator can be raised by 25-35%. The berry weighs about 11 g. The pulp is firm, even firm. This variety has good transportability.

Ruby giant

The Ruby Giant is a remontant raspberry derived from the very popular Patricia variety. It differs from the parent in higher winter hardiness and better immunity. It does not have any special requirements for the quality of the soil, it successfully adapts to the conditions of the local climate.

Raspberries of the Ruby Giant variety have a certain ecological plasticity.

The height of the bush is 1.6–1.8 m. The tops of the shoots are slightly numb. There are no thorns.Fruiting lasts from early June to late September. The berries weigh about 11 g. The flesh has a pronounced aroma, firm. The taste is very balanced and refreshing, sweet and sour. Productivity - up to 9 kg per bush.

Black raspberry

Black-fruited raspberry differs from the classic red raspberry in its almost complete absence of sourness in taste. The berries are very sweet, almost honey-like. Their rich color is due to the presence of a high concentration of antioxidants.


Bristol is considered one of the best black raspberries in the world, mainly due to its record high yields. The bush reaches a height of 2.5–3 m. The average weight of a berry is 3–5 g. The pulp is firm and sweet.

Bristol raspberries are very popular all over the world.

The bush does not give root growth. Of the diseases, anthracnose is the most dangerous. Frost resistance up to -15 ºС. Shoots are densely covered with sharp thorns.


Bred in the United States, Cumberland has been cultivated for 130 years. It is a hybrid of common red and blackberries with a unique taste similar to mulberry with a pungent sourness. The berries are medium-sized, weighing up to 2 g.

For raspberries of the Cumberland variety, a special, unique taste is characteristic.

The height of the bush is up to 3.5 m. The shoots are drooping, forming something resembling arches. The thorns are rare, but rather sharp. Root shoots are formed very actively, if you do not fight with it, raspberries quickly spread over the site.

The root system is poorly developed, transplantation is not recommended. In rainy, cool weather, the bushes can suffer from anthracnose. Frost resistance up to -30 ºС.

Video: description of the Cumberland raspberry variety


Raspberry Ugolyok is an achievement of Russian breeders. An early variety, developed specifically for Western Siberia. The bush is rather high (2.2–2.5 m), the shoots are drooping. They are dotted with thorns along their entire length. The berries are small (1.8 g), the flesh is very firm and sweet. The taste is estimated at 4.1 points.

Raspberry varieties Ugolyok zoned for cultivation in the conditions of the Siberian climate

The undoubted advantages of the variety are good winter hardiness and high immunity. Productivity - 4-6 kg.


The turn is a medium early variety. Bushes about 2.5 m high, very vigorous. Root growth is absent. The thorns are sparsely located.

Raspberries of the Povorot variety are too small, but they look very presentable

Berry weight - 1.6-1.9 g. Maximum yield - 6.8 kg. The variety has good immunity, it tolerates cold better than drought.

Yellow raspberry

Yellow raspberries, in contrast to red and black, can be included in the diet of allergy sufferers, pregnant women and young children. It is rich in carotenoids and folic acid.

Yellow giant

The yellow giant is a medium early variety, recommended for cultivation in the Northwest region. The bush is powerful, the branches are vertical. The thorns cover them entirely. Average winter hardiness. The variety rarely suffers from diseases and pests. It does not differ in keeping quality and transportability.

Raspberry varieties Yellow giant - one of the most popular varieties of non-standard color among gardeners

The weight of the berry is 1.7–3.1 g, some specimens are up to 8 g. The pulp is very tender, sweet and aromatic, although the professionals gave the taste 3.4 points. Fruiting begins in the last decade of July and lasts until September.

Video: what the raspberry yellow giant looks like

Golden autumn

Golden Autumn is a mid-late variety with no restrictions on the region of cultivation. Bushes up to 1.8 m high, slightly spreading. Thorns cover only the base of the shoots. Berries weigh an average of 5 g, some up to 7 g. The pulp is not too dense, sweet and sour, the aroma is very delicate. Assessment of tasters - 3.9 points.

Raspberries of the Golden Autumn variety can be planted in most of Russia

Yield indicators - 2–2.5 kg. There is immunity, but it is not absolute. Frost resistance at the level of -30 ºС.

Golden domes

Raspberry Golden domes are advised to be cultivated in the Central region.A grade from the category of remontants. Shrub 1.3 m or slightly more, spreading. Spines cover the entire length of the shoot, but there are relatively few of them. This raspberry shows good resistance to pathogenic fungi (anthracnose, purple spot) and pests.

Raspberries of the Golden Dome variety have good immunity

The berries weigh 3.8 g each. As they ripen, the pale yellow color gradually changes to apricot. The pulp is sweet, with a subtle sourness. Productivity - about 2 kg per bush.

Orange miracle

Orange miracle is a medium-ripening remontant variety suitable for cultivation in most of Russia. The bushes are not tall (1.5–2 m), powerful, the shoots are badly drooped under the weight of the harvest. The variety tolerates drought and heat well.

Raspberries of the Orange Miracle variety bear fruit until the first frost

The berries are large, weighing 5.5 g, some gaining a mass of 10 g or more. The pulp is fragrant, sweet and sour, dense. The tasters rated the taste at 4 points. The warmer the summer is, the sweeter and brighter this raspberry. Average yield 2.5 kg. Fruiting begins in the last decade of July and does not stop until frost.


The main feature of the Amber variety is an unusual honey-yellow or amber shade of berries. The bush is high (2–2.5 m), but rather compact. The average weight of the berry is 4 g, the taste is very pleasant dessert. Productivity - up to 3 kg.

Amber raspberries tolerate transportation well

Variety from the category of remontant, medium late in terms of crop ripening. Subject to competent agricultural technology, it practically does not suffer from diseases and pests. It is characterized by good transportability, which, in principle, is not typical for yellow raspberries.

Sweet yellow

Yellow sweet - a variety from the mid-early category. The berries are large (3–6 g), pale yellow. The pulp is soft, very aromatic. Sprawling bushes, up to 1.5 m high, without thorns. Basal growth and replacement shoots are formed quite actively. The variety has good immunity and frost resistance, sufficient when cultivated in central Russia.

Ripened, raspberries of the Slastena yellow variety stay on the bush for a long time

Gardeners reviews

In addition to personal preference, the choice of a particular raspberry variety for a personal plot is determined by many factors. This is frost resistance, and productivity, and the size of the bush, and the taste of berries. Each variety has its own advantages and most often it is not devoid of certain disadvantages. You need to familiarize yourself with them in advance in order to make the right choice and plant a variety on your own site that best manifests itself in the climatic and weather conditions typical for the area.

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There are many types of apples that can be stored all winter without problems. And they are all considered late, but for convenience they are distinguished:

  • early winter (preferably before the end of January-beginning of February)
  • winter (the shelf life of these apples at home lasts until the end of March-early April)
  • late winter (you can eat in late May - early June).

It turns out that by choosing the right varieties of winter apple trees, you can eat juicy fresh fruits all year round.


Late-ripening variety. The trees reach a height of three meters. The crop can be harvested from the third year of the plant's life, but the most delicious apples are obtained in 5-6 years. The fruits are very juicy, with a rich taste and pleasant aroma. One weighs approximately 120-180 grams. Initially, they are green, then covered with yellow and orange spots, and over time, ripening more often after removal from the tree, acquire an even red "blush". You need to collect it in late September - early October. Shelf life up to 180 days. They are consumed fresh and dried, used for making compotes, juices.


This variety was bred in Belarus.
It is particularly resistant to frost and has a long shelf life. Apples weigh about 150-200 grams, as they ripen, they change color from green to dark brown, have a natural waxy coating. You can harvest a full harvest from the second year of the plant's life. The plant itself is low, up to 2-2.5 meters. You can pick apples until mid-October. They are stored for up to 240 days. Full flavor is acquired 40-60 days after harvest. Suitable for fresh consumption, for preparing compotes and desserts.


This variety belongs to the early maturing. The crop can be harvested from the third year of the plant's life. The fruits are very juicy, beautiful, with a peel of an even red color and a light waxy bloom. The taste is sweet with a slight sourness and delicate aroma. The weight of one is about 120-140 gr. The tree reaches a height of 4 meters, adapts well to environmental conditions, has a high immunity. The fruits are stored without problems until mid-late May. Can be eaten fresh, used for making desserts.

Anis Scarlet

Residents of the Volga region should pay attention to this variety of apples in the first place.


Dense apples have an even green color, turning yellow as they ripen. Trees can be 2 to 5 meters high. The size of the plant does not affect the stability of fruiting. The weight of apples is up to 150 grams, the shape is even. The taste is pleasant, rich sweet with a slight sourness and wine aroma. They are eaten fresh, used for the preparation of compotes. The variety is ideal for fermentation and soaking. Apples are stored for a short time, only until the New Year. The collection takes place at the end of September. If winter varieties of apple trees with a long shelf life of fruits need a pollinator, it is better than Antonovka for this to be found.

Belarusian synap

Late winter varieties of apples are stored well and for a long time, but the Belarusian Sinap is a record holder in this regard. The fruits harvested in early October lie beautifully until the next harvest, while retaining their sweet taste, juiciness and pleasant aroma. Skin color is yellow-green. Weight of one up to 250 gr. If the autumn is not rainy, but sunny, they acquire a beautiful blush.

The plant enters the active phase of fruiting from the second year of life. The tree has a beautiful shape, it does not really need to form a crown.


Late winter bogatyr variety that can adapt to almost any climatic conditions. Fruits weighing up to 180 grams, with a slight sourness. You can shoot at the end of September. Stored until the end of May, gradually changing color from green to yellow. Some even develop a slight blush. The best harvest indicators fall 5-6 years after planting. Often grown for sale due to their resistance to a variety of diseases, including scab, excellent presentation, the ability to tolerate transportation even over long distances, and consistently high fruiting.


New winter varieties are developed taking into account previous errors. Currency is unique in this respect. Apples can be harvested in the first year after planting. Fruits weighing up to 100 grams are yellow, gradually turning red. Very juicy, with a sweet and sour taste and rich aroma. The collection is carried out until mid-October. Stored for 2-4 months. The trees are low, up to 2 meters, and have an even shape. They do not need crown formation and processing.

Golden Delicious

The fruits have high characteristics, but the plant definitely needs a pollinator. This is the only drawback. Otherwise, there are no difficulties with growing, no problems with storing the harvested crop. The variety has a high immunity, perfectly tolerates long-distance transportation. The color is yellow, the shape is slightly elongated, the skin is thin but dense. There may be "freckles" on the peel. This is not a disease, but an indicator of naturalness and quality. The tree reaches a height of up to 6 meters, but also bears fruit well when forming a low crown (up to 2 meters). Harvesting is carried out at the end of September, and apples are stored until the end of spring.


The variety is unpretentious to growing conditions, gives a consistently high yield, starting from the third year of life. Apples are small, up to 130 grams, very beautiful, red in color, with juicy pulp, sweet. Stored until early spring, collection is carried out until mid-October. The main thing is not to suffer from frost. Then the sweets will be even more, but the shelf life will be reduced by at least half.


Delicious and juicy apples. The seedlings adapt well to any conditions, but the more fertile the soil, the higher the yield and quality characteristics of the fruit will be. Trees reach 2.5 meters in height and need sufficient moisture for normal development. The variety is resistant to scab and powdery mildew. You can remove the fruits from mid-September. You can eat right away, although the sweetest and juiciest apples of the Jonathan variety are those that have acquired an even red color.


These winter apples are considered unique. They were bred in Canada from the only apple tree that survived after landing at a new place of residence. The white-yellow fruits are decorated with stripes of red, burgundy or purple. The taste is best evaluated 2 weeks after harvest. The taste is very rich, moderately sweet. They are used mainly fresh, but they are also suitable for blanks. The variety has many advantages, but for stable fruiting, constant care, reliable shelter for the winter, top dressing, and sufficient watering are needed. The maximum yield occurs by the 6th year of life. The tree grows up to 4 meters, requires crown formation.

It is a daughter variety of Macintosh. The main advantage of the Lobo variety is its consistently high yield. It begins to actively bear fruit from the 4th year of life and, starting from that moment, annually increases its indicators. Needs no maintenance. Differs in drought resistance and increased immunity, is not afraid of frost. The tree grows up to 4 meters. It is believed that the fruits must be removed before October 5 and left to ripen at home for 14-25 days. Stored for up to six months. Ripe apples have an even red color, juicy sweet pulp.


When choosing winter varieties of apple trees for the middle lane and the south, pay attention to Cortland. It was bred in America, so it did not take root in the North of our country. But in other regions it gives excellent performance. Fruits are green-yellow, with red vertical streaks, juicy. The pulp is grainy, sweet, with a rich aroma. Average apple weight 120 gr. Fruiting begins at the age of 5. Apples are stored until May, but only in a cold cellar or refrigerator.

Moscow Winter

An excellent variety with many benefits. The tree is of medium height, resistant to frost and temperature extremes. Fruits are even, greenish-yellow, sometimes with red stripes. The taste is sweet with a slight sourness, the pulp is creamy, juicy, the aroma is spicy. You can pick apples from the end of September, but they will need about another month to ripen. Stored until mid-spring. They are consumed mainly fresh.

Pepin saffron

The best varieties of winter apples are those that are time-tested. This species is considered one of the "elders". The harvest from the fifth year of life gives a high, but periodically. It reaches a height of up to 6 meters. Fruits are small up to 80 grams, but very sweet and juicy. Above are red, but the main color is green-yellow. A distinctive feature is a rich spicy aroma. The undoubted advantages are resistance to the harsh Russian climate and the ability to independently recover from illness or frostbite. Harvesting is carried out until mid-October, fruits are stored until mid-March.

Red Delicious

In addition to the high quality characteristics of the fruits, these winter-hardy trees look very attractive. While the plant is young, the crown resembles an inverted pyramid in appearance, and then it rounds up, becomes like a ball.Active fruiting begins from the third year of the plant's life. Apples are quite large (weighing up to 250 grams), sweet, as they ripen, they acquire a juicy red color, but they have a pronounced taste of iron, which not everyone likes. The collection is carried out before the onset of cold weather and rains. It is advisable to remove all apples by early October. One of the drawbacks is the defeat of fruits stored in storage with a bitter spot.

Renet Simirenko

A very tasty variety of apples. The appearance of the fruit and the trees themselves may differ depending on the growing conditions.
Roads do not need crown formation, but then they can reach 6 or more meters in height. They tolerate drought, high humidity and strong winds. A distinctive feature of 2-3 "warts" on each apple. This is not a disease, but a symptom of the variety. The peel itself is green, sometimes with a slight "blush", and the growths have a rust tint. The pulp is juicy, white, with a wine aroma. They eat mostly fresh. They are well stored both indoors and in the cold (in the cellar, pantry). Shelf life up to 250 days. Active fruiting begins from the 4th year of the plant's life.

Rossoshanskoe Striped

Very pretty apples are often grown for sale. But for private use, the variety is rarely planted. It is very susceptible to scab and needs to be treated with special preparations several times per season. Fruits weighing up to 350 grams, sweet, juicy, aromatic. They are well stored, they can be transported without problems even over long distances. Active fruiting begins from the third year of the plant's life.

North synap

Plant this sprawling tree in your area and every year (starting at the age of 5) you will be provided with plenty of healthy and tasty apples. The color is green, but there may be a slight blush. The harvest should be carried out in mid-October, but consumed after at least 2 weeks for the apples to ripen. Fruits are stored until mid-April. The weight of one is up to 170 g, the taste is juicy, sweet. Trees have high immunity.

Sinap Orlovsky

Having decided to plant such trees on your site, you need to take care of a sufficient amount of free space for them. And it must also be borne in mind that for stable fruiting (the active phase begins from the 5th year of life), they must be constantly fed with calcium. Apples have a very attractive presentation, sweet taste with a slight pleasant sourness. The skin color is green, with a slight blush on the sides. The size is almost the same, the weight of one is about 150 grams. The collection takes place in the second half of September. Stored for up to six months. They are good both fresh and in the form of blanks.

Honey Crisp

Delicious apples that have a unique crunchy flesh. They were bred in America, but they quickly adapted to our harsh climate. The fruits are large, can weigh up to 350 grams. The color is green with a red blush. The pulp is juicy, with a pleasant wine aroma and slight sourness. Fruiting begins in the third year of life. If you store apples in the refrigerator or cellar, then they will last until the end of February.

Why raspberries do not come up. Personal experience of growing raspberries. How to deal with stem raspberry gall midge

The gardener collects a cup of raspberries in his garden and is happy. Many plantings quickly turn into thickets, yields are falling, there are almost no berries. In such cases, the raspberries are said to have degenerated. And then they begin to replace the landings with new ones. The circle repeats itself. Although, with proper care, raspberries can yield a yield of 5-7 kg per bush. Such a maximum harvest of raspberries is, as it were, granted by nature itself, it will help her a little, and she will fully thank you.
Raspberries in our summer cottages bear fruit more or less tolerably for two or three years, and then the yield drops. Meanwhile, it should really bear fruit only from the fourth year of planting. In the first year, the seedling can produce several berries and one strong shoot.In the second year, each planted plant has 3-5 replaceable shoots, by the end of the third year - 8-12 shoots. And only from the fourth year of life, raspberries for the first time give full-fledged harvests.

In order for raspberries to grow and bear fruit well, you first need to worry about the roots, because not shoots, but only perennial roots. When purchasing planting material, you need to ensure that the roots do not dry out. Dried roots do not take root well and if they do not die in winter, then they suffer for a long time. They create conditions from a young age. Roots need a loose soil structure. Raspberries will not grow on heavy clay soil. In places with a similar groundwater level (1-1.2 m), the roots of seedlings rot. In this case, you will have to plant the raspberries in the hills. The place for the raspberries is chosen on a small gentle slope from the north, east or west. The best time for planting is late October - early November, or when the leaves begin to turn yellow on the apple trees. Do not plant raspberries with unripe shoots and leaves, as the leaves evaporate moisture and the plant dries up. Therefore, before planting or immediately after purchase, they are smoothed or cut off. For planting raspberries, it is better to dig a trench at least 40 cm deep and cover it with humus, peat, compost with the addition of sand - the more, the better. On sandy soils, if possible, manure or peat is applied annually under the bushes on such lands, raspberries work best on such lands.

Raspberries love nitrogen fertilizers - nitrate or urea. It is better to introduce them in early spring, even in snow or autumn, at the end of October - November, after the leaves of the raspberry turn yellow and fall off. In the latter case, part of the fertilizer will be washed out with melt water or precipitation, but the plants will be stronger. The first feeding I do in early May, then twice more, every two weeks. Raspberries need less potassium fertilizers. I add potassium chloride or ash in the second half of summer. Phosphate fertilizers, according to my observations, do not work. Apparently raspberries have enough of them in the ground, but I don't use them. Fertilizers are best mixed, for example, add saltpeter to 1-2 buckets of manure humus and apply fractional 5-10 kg per hundred square meters per season, but remember that when overfeeding, the shoots ripen poorly and are more damaged by frost, pests gather with pleasure on such bushes and disease. I believe that no one, except the gardener himself, can determine the rate of fertilization. I usually define this by winning. If the growth of raspberry shoots over the summer exceeds 1.8-2 m, then I reduce the dose.


Raspberries are very responsive to watering. I believe that only this can increase the productivity of our plantations ten or more times. Once, under the window of a country house, a bush of "escaped" raspberries somehow grew imperceptibly - just in the place where rainwater flowed from the roof. It was a rainy year, and this "escape" was so transformed that every time I came to the site every other day, I collected a half-liter or one-liter jar of full-fledged berries from her and even thought: why not. multiply it? Of course, plantations cannot be turned into a swamp. You can determine the water requirement of the soil as follows. If the soil from a depth of 10-15 cm does not shrink into a lump, but crumbles, then it must be watered. In a dry period, when there is no rain for a long time, it is imperative to water every 10-15 days. So that the soil does not dry out, it is useful to mulch the plantings with peat, manure with a layer of up to 10 cm.

Of great importance in obtaining a good harvest is the raspberry garter, for example, to the trellis. Without a trellis, the yield is halved. Better and easier to lay trellises in the year the plantation was laid. Without a garter, the bushes thicken, and the lower half of them remains without light and, accordingly, without berries, and the berries of the upper part touch the ground. In this shade, small buds are laid on young shoots and flowering next year will be weak. The advantage of the trellis is that this arrangement of plants facilitates the work of care and harvesting.Therefore, without a garter to a trellis or stakes (which is worse), it makes no sense to grow raspberries.


Almost the same amount is lost without removing shoots. According to Professor V.V. Kichina: "Growth is the enemy of raspberries." It takes half of the nutrients from the plant. Therefore, when shoots appear, they are removed with a shovel, cutting to a depth of 7 cm. Subsequent pruning, especially digging up shoots in autumn, damages the roots and weakens the main plant. and significantly reduces the yield

No more, no less

The formation of full-fledged plants (from the age of four) comes down to the fact that out of 8-12 grown shoots in the thickets, only 7. bush remains, no more and no less. If you leave 3-5 shoots, then the stems grow by 3 or more meters in height, which significantly reduces yield.
They remove shoots thinner than a simple pencil, diseased or damaged, as well as the thickest ones, because at their base there are cracks in which the larvae of the raspberry mosquito hibernate.
Fruiting shoots of common raspberries are cut immediately after harvest. For varieties that form few replacement shoots, the "double pruning" method is used. The first pruning is carried out when the shoots reach a length of 40-50 cm. They are shortened by 15 cm or by half. After 2-3 weeks, 2-3 lateral shoots appear on the trimmed green shoot. The second pruning is done in the spring, during the swelling of the buds. The harvest on such plants ripens 15-20 days later, but raspberries look better, up to 40 more berries are formed on each shoot than on uncut ones.
In one place, raspberries grow well and bear fruit for 10 years, sometimes with good care up to 20-24 years. In general, it can grow in 50 years. But it gives an excellent yield until the rhizome at the base, for one reason or another, does not cease to dry out. Until that happens, you can enjoy the sweet and flavorful raspberries.
Of course, the yield of raspberries depends a lot on the varieties grown. I'll talk about them later.

In response to these statements, the seller said that it is necessary to follow agricultural practices, and not complain about varieties. The buyer just waved his hand, saying that this is a common excuse.

Let's try to figure out who is right and who is wrong. I saw large-fruited varieties of raspberries with a harvest not only at exhibitions, but also in nurseries and at experienced gardeners. I saw the same varieties in "amateur" plots.

Let's analyze my observations together and draw a conclusion: what raspberries love and how to please her.

First of all, it must be said that the approach to growing large-fruited varieties among amateurs and professionals is completely different. Most gardeners believe that replacing their usual large-fruited raspberries, they will immediately get a harvest of especially large berries (without changing anything in agricultural technology).

Experienced gardeners and agronomists understand that all modern varieties are created and grown on a high agricultural background. Good performance cannot be achieved without it. Getting, to put it mildly, in "average" conditions, the variety begins to degrade and produce "average" berries, slightly larger than usual. Agronomists love to repeat one wise phrase: "Poor farming practices can ruin even the best variety."

1. Lack of light. We honestly admit that we don't have the best raspberry spots. Where does it grow most often? Along the fence, behind the house, shed or in the corner of the garden behind a large apple tree. Is there enough light? As a rule, no. This is the first mistake.

Raspberries need a lot of light. Remember, in the forest, the best raspberries grow in glades. Therefore, plant it in a completely open area.

2. Planting raspberries instead of raspberries. It often happens that new varieties are planted in the same place where the old raspberries grew. The owner believes that he thoroughly cleared the place from previous plantings and removed all roots. But this is a delusion! It is impossible to remove raspberries without a trace! It sprouts even from the smallest roots.

Sometimes the old raspberries are not removed at all (sorry), but a new variety is planted next to it.

So what's going on? As new seedlings grow, they begin to produce offspring. At the same time, old raspberries sprout. It is extremely difficult to distinguish between these shoots. Moreover, some large-fruited varieties show very poor growth (especially at a young age). At the same time, old varieties "creep away" in all directions. As a result, the gardener begins to propagate his old raspberries by layering. Naturally, he gets small berries from her, and then “dumps” the blame on a new variety.

Let's not forget that according to the rules of agricultural technology, the change of crops should be observed. The apple tree is not planted after the apple tree, and a different place is chosen for it. But it is customary to plant raspberries on the border of the garden, and, as you know, there is only one border. Thus, the new varieties end up in the same place.

Remember, raspberries cannot be planted on raspberries! Set aside for new saplings

separate area away from old bushes.

3. Preparation of the landing site. The soil in most garden plots is infertile, so organic fertilization should be applied before planting. This rule is often ignored. In a hurry, they simply dig up the ground and plant the purchased plants.

Raspberries love fertile soil. This is noticeable even in the forest. The largest berries ripen on bushes growing in a small depression where more forest litter has accumulated, that is, where there is more humus.

According to the description, modern varieties yield 6-7 kg per bush (record 10 kg). To achieve such results, experienced gardeners, when planting, add 1 bucket of rotted manure and a liter can of ash to each hole. Everything is mixed with earth and raspberries are planted.

4. Quality of service. Compare how we cherish and cherish Victoria (large strawberries). For her, the garden is the most honorable place. And for some reason we regret the place for raspberries. What's worse? Her growth is too high, and even forms thickets. I don't want to spoil the look of the site.

And you don't let it go into the thicket. If raspberries grow uncontrollably, shade, nutrition is not enough. This is a gross mistake! All this leads to the degeneration of diversity. On the other hand, well-groomed plantings of raspberries yield a bountiful harvest of large, sweet berries. This is a real pride and decoration of the garden!

Take care of the raspberries. Avoid overgrowth. In the spring, tie the bushes to a trellis or cola. In the summer, remove small shoots, layering. In the fall, cut the bushes completely or completely cut (for remontant or "annual" varieties).

5. Watering. A very common mistake is a lack of moisture. Many gardeners do not understand that raspberries, in addition to rain, need additional watering. Indeed, in nature, no one waters it. But on the other hand, in the forest, from the largest berries, they give bushes that have grown in a small hollow, where moisture from the rain lingers longer.

Sometimes the lack of watering is associated for a trivial reason - the hose simply does not reach the fence where the raspberries are planted, and if there is enough length, then they do not linger over the raspberries: they only moisten the earth from the hose, and the water does not penetrate into the depths of the roots.

Raspberries are very fond of moisture. Water it liberally. The norm is a bucket of water for an adult bush. Watering frequency - depending on the weather. The soil under the raspberries should always be moist.

It is recommended to plant raspberries in a trench so that water does not spread during irrigation. After planting, its depth should be 10-15 cm from the soil level. The width needs to be made about a meter, then the moisture is more evenly distributed in the root zone. It is advisable to strengthen the sides with boards so that over time the trench does not level out from precipitation and irrigation.

6. Mulching. This agricultural technique is recommended for all crops. But few people use it for raspberries. What does he give? Retains moisture in the soil. Prevents the growth of weeds. Prevents the formation of soil crust and keeps it loose. Protects roots from snowless frosts. Prevents the growth of pests in the soil. All this improves the conditions for the growth of raspberries and increases their yield.

For raspberries, not only good soil moisture is important, but also sufficient air for the roots. If you do not use mulching, then you often have to loosen the soil. This leads to damage to the roots, since they are very shallow in raspberries.

The term "mulching" has appeared relatively recently. But the technique itself is far from new. In the old days, they said that raspberries love "all the trash." Therefore, they carried any organic matter under them: in the fall - a litter from livestock (straw manure), in the spring - twigs from pruning, in the summer - cut grass and weeds. By the way, it is the presence of small twigs, together with other organic matter, that makes the soil especially loose, with an abundance of air.

Raspberries need to be mulched. This should be done at least twice a year: in the fall before the onset of cold weather and in early spring before the start of the growing season. In summer, it is recommended to add mulching materials as they dry on

At the exhibition, the offended buyer assured that he grew raspberries according to all the rules, but did not receive the promised superberries. What happened?

In defense of the diligent gardener, the following can be said: The basis of new varieties of raspberries is a special large-fruited gene. The outward signs of a plant that stores this gene are long sepals. The disadvantage of this gene is its instability. That is, a part of varietal plants (a small percentage) gives ordinary fruits. During flowering, short sepals are visible on such shoots. This is not a disease, but the return of the plant to its natural state.

In this regard, the reproduction of large-fruited varieties requires special care. Shoots with short sepals must be ruthlessly disposed of, but in nurseries, in pursuit of profit (or unknowingly), this requirement is not always met. That is, among the seedlings of real large-fruited varieties, regenerant plants can also come across. Therefore, it is best to buy raspberries in reliable, proven nurseries. Or come to the nursery yourself and choose the seedlings on the spot.

How to determine the authenticity of a large-fruited seedling if at the time of sale (in spring or autumn) it does not bloom and does not have such sepals on it?

Experienced gardeners are convinced that raspberries can be planted throughout the summer. First, most varietal seedlings are now sold in containers or bags. And secondly, in the summer, raspberry seedlings take root well if you dig them up with a large clod of earth. Only the shoots need to be shortened (up to 40-45 cm)! Fill the hole well with water and put a peg. After that, cover the roots with earth and water again. Mulch the soil. Wrap the plant in a spunbond or sheet to protect it from the sun. With such a planting, the survival rate of plants is 100%.

Without proper care, large-fruited varieties still show their properties and produce larger berries than usual, but they never reach their maximum size. The photo shows just such a case: in the center there is an ordinary berry and a large-fruited variety Patricia. If all the requirements are met, Patricia berries grow larger.

Large-fruited raspberry varieties Arbat, Generalizimus, Pride of Russia, Beauty of Russia, Abundant, Divine, Paradise pleasure, Inaccessible, Ideal, Patricia, Tarusa, Just dear, Maroseyka, etc.

For comparison. A good garden raspberry yields 3 berries. 5-4 g. Large-fruited varieties - 14-18 g each, the most outstanding - up to 23 g. In modern remontant varieties, berries weigh up to 12 g.

Prepared material

You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" 2010 # 10.

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Raspberries seem like a simple crop to grow but require constant maintenance. Everything is related to its physiological characteristics. Raspberries are demanding on the composition of the soil, the seedling will grow well if it is planted in nutrient-rich loose soil. Roots located close to the soil surface do well in a well-fertilized and structured soil and give good replacement growth. After all, raspberries are shoots that grow and bear fruit for two years.

If the site is new, it is necessary to do a good deep digging, remove the roots of weeds and select larvae, such large pests as the beetle or bear. Then add humus and manure, apply mineral fertilizers.

Raspberries love places well warmed by the sun, protected from cold northerly winds.

In the holes where raspberries grow, it is necessary to remove weeds, even such useful ones as . Carry out a light loosening of the soil with a rake, but neither in the spring nor in the fall you should not dig up the soil, and you should not strongly knock down the weeds with hoes and shovels. It must be remembered that the roots are close to the surface and can be damaged.

Raspberry pruning is carried out in summer and spring, taking into account the timing and type of berry picking. Raspberry bushes, with good care, reach a height of up to two meters, so she needs to put special grates with a stretched wire in the form of strips, tie the branches to the wire or put individual supports and tie all the shoots of the bush to them, there can be from five to ten of them in the bush ... Otherwise, during wind, snowfall and fruiting, raspberry stems may fall and break under the weight of ripe berries.

Especially for young plantations of raspberries, to stimulate growth, it is necessary to add rotted manure, and together with watering - 30 g of ammonium nitrate and 40 g of superphosphate. For the first time it is important to stimulate good growth of raspberry bushes. This will ensure a good harvest in the future. It is not recommended to use potassium chloride for feeding raspberry plantations, raspberries do not react well to chlorine. Feed well with a solution of mullein or bird droppings and apply as an aqueous infusion.

Fertilization must be combined with irrigation, which must be carried out regularly. Raspberries do not like drying out of the soil, so they grow poorly.

When caring for raspberries, you should pay attention to the cleanliness of the holes. It is necessary to remove weeds in time and not to litter the beds with raspberry plantings. Plant residues cannot be folded and thrown under raspberries, although this creates protection for retaining moisture in the soil, also leads to the development of putrefactive processes, becomes a breeding ground for slugs that are not dangerous for raspberries, but they crawl to plant strawberries and spoil berries. This is another reason for poor growth of raspberries. ... Rotting residues oppress the raspberry root system, on which underground buds are formed for the growth of replacement shoots.

Although some experts advise, to accelerate the ripening of raspberries, especially repair varieties, in which the second harvest ripens in the fall, and sometimes does not have time to fully ripen, add apples under the raspberries. When decaying, falling apples release gas, which has a beneficial effect on the berries and accelerates their growth and ripening.

Frost protection. If necessary, in areas with frosty winters, raspberry bushes are tied in bunches in autumn and bent to the ground. The root system can survive frost, but the branches can be damaged, resulting in crop loss. Leaves left on raspberries do not need to be torn off by force, as this can damage the axillary buds. In winter, leave the bushes with the remaining amount of leaves on them.

Limit raspberry overgrowth. The advantage of raspberries is their unlimited ability to regenerate due to the appearance of offspring. Such vitality of raspberries sometimes becomes a big problem because they germinate in the wrong place and in neighboring areas. And sometimes, when transferring raspberries to a new place, you have to remove sprouted rhizomes on the old one for several years. Be sure to limit the growth of raspberries.

Raspberries are demanding for feeding and watering. On annual shoots, after harvesting, buds are laid for the future harvest, while the process goes from bottom to top. At the top of the shoots weaker buds, this is taken into account when pruning the bushes.

Spring is coming. There are plans to plant raspberries. Orders have already been placed, we are waiting for a bountiful harvest.
Ah, dreams! But how much more will need to be done so that you can enjoy delicious berries.

First of all, you need to take care of the correct planting of the acquired planting material. Raspberries love to drink, so it is very important not to let the root system dry out.Horses should not be allowed to stay outdoors, especially in the sun. Cover the seedlings with a damp cloth. if it is not possible to start planting in the near future, then it is better to just bury it. Do not store seedlings in plastic bags for a long time - this can cause rotting of the roots.

Of course, raspberries can also grow in partial shade. But what happens to her? Shoots stretch out and buds form at the tops where there is more light. These tops, as a rule, do not ripen before frost and die off in winter.
Therefore, it is better to place the raspberry tree in a well-lit place, protected from the wind.

Raspberries don't need much space. It can be placed under the sunny side of the house, stepping back from it by about a meter, no less. The site needs to be carefully thought out, refueled, because raspberries can grow in one place for quite a long time, more than a dozen years.
For better illumination, as always, the rows of raspberries are arranged from north to south or from southwest to northeast.

Raspberries are a very hardy crop. Only soil freezing up to 21 degrees can destroy its root system. But its buds and stems can dry in the wind and freeze. Therefore, it is worth caring for raspberries at the end of the season to avoid winter problems.

Raspberries are very fond of food and do not really like when the roots grow poorly, that is, the soil is heavy and dense. Give it loose, well-permeable water and sufficiently fertile soil. It will grow not only on black soil, but also on sandy loam and even on sandy soils, provided a sufficient amount of organic matter and abundant irrigation are applied.

I have quite dense loams in my dacha, so it is difficult for raspberries to grow on them just like that. But after I began to mulch the root system abundantly with leaves or cut grass, periodically adding ash from the barbecue, my raspberries began to feel quite comfortable. The acidity of the soil is about 6.5, so the addition of ash slightly reduces it and it turns out that the soil is quite comfortable for raspberries in terms of acidity - 5.5 - 6.

Malinka is a capricious young lady. Although he loves abundant watering, it does not tolerate waterlogging and stagnant water. In order for the raspberry root system to receive a sufficient amount of moisture, it should not be planted on slopes along which moisture from rain and snow quickly drains away without penetrating deep into the ground. Raspberries will not grow even with a high level of groundwater, above one and a half meters. In such cases, you need to make high volume beds, and conversely, in arid regions, raspberries can be planted in shallow trenches that will collect melt water and water from irrigation and rain.
It is especially important to maintain soil moisture at a depth of about 50 cm during flowering and fruiting of raspberries.

The area allotted for planting raspberries should be cleared of weeds, organic and mineral fertilizers should be applied, if necessary, lime or ash should be added on acidic soils at the rate of 200-300 g per square meter.

It is important to clear the place of pests, especially from the beetle larvae, which are capable of destroying a raspberry tree in one season.
If the raspberry varieties selected for planting have the peculiarity of growing over a long distance, giving abundant growth, moving away from the mother bush at a distance of up to 80 cm, then such a raspberry tree should be limited in advance to the creation of a barrier 30-40 cm wide, dug into the soil by raspberry roots.

It is best to fertilize the entire area, but you can also fertilize directly into the planting pits. The main thing is to give raspberries a lot of nitrogen and potassium. Under already growing plants, only nitrogen needs to be applied, since when nitrogen is introduced during planting, raspberries take root poorly.

It is good to add humus or compost from organic matter to the soil, add sand on heavy soils.

Under raspberries, every spring I plant nitroammophoska or nitrogen fertilizers 20 g of urea per square meter on frozen-thawed soil, to which I add 40 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium sulfate.
Ideally, the nutritional requirements of raspberries during planting look like this: 10 kg of organic fertilizers are applied per 1 square meter, plus 20 g of phosphorus or 100 g of superphosphate, plus 25 g of potassium or 50 g of potassium sulfate.


In order for a young plant to take root better, the seedling can be soaked for 2-3 hours in a humate or root solution, to which you can add some systemic fungicide, such as Quadris, Ridomil or Flint.
The rest of the seedlings are treated in the same way as any others: they cut out damaged roots, shorten too long ones.

Don't plant raspberries too deep or too shallow. With deep planting, the bush develops slowly, and with superficial drying of the root buds and with drought or frost, the plant may die. Therefore, when planting raspberries, be guided by how the seedlings grow in the nursery. After the soil spills and settles, the root collar of the seedling should be at ground level.
When planting a plant, you need to ensure that there are no voids between the roots. To do this, the seedling needs to be shaken periodically and after planting it is good to stomp your feet.

After planting, the raspberries need to be watered abundantly, about half a bucket to a bucket of water per bush, regardless of soil moisture.
The next step in caring for planted raspberries is pruning. In areas with sufficient rainfall, the shrub is cut at soil level, and in dry areas, hemp is left up to 20 cm, which is completely cut in June. This hemp with a supply of moisture will feed the fragile root system.

After planting and watering, it is advisable to mulch the seedlings. The layer of mulch should be about 10 cm. Mulch improves the temperature and humidity conditions of the soil, reduces moisture evaporation and promotes the development of a good root system. Mulch inhibits weed growth. Another very useful moment when mulching plantings of raspberries and strawberries. Through a thick layer of mulch, the female (beetle) cannot lay eggs in the soil.

Mulch can be very different: from well-rotted compost, sawdust, bark and peat to a black film. It is only necessary to remember that fresh sawdust and bark absorb large amounts of nitrogen during decomposition. Therefore, it is worth adjusting fertilizers during watering, taking into account this feature.

In my raspberry bush, thorny grass began to make its way along the mulch from the cut grass. Apparently, this creeping grass with its tiny superficial roots does not interfere too much with raspberries, but it perfectly shades the soil in the heat. I periodically pull it out of the raspberry tree so that it does not take root too much, but I do not insist on its complete destruction. I like raspberries - I like them too.

If the ground around the raspberries is kept simply clean, then you need to carefully monitor the watering, to prevent the soil from drying out. The same should be done with the soil in areas with strong moisture.

Features of planting in the spring.

When purchasing seedlings in the spring, you need to pay attention to whether the buds have already begun to germinate. It is especially bad if the buds on the roots have begun to grow or even young shoots have already sprouted. It is better not to purchase such planting material, but if otherwise it does not work out, then it is necessary to provide the seedlings with optimal humidity, not to let them dry out.
It is important to ensure the spring plantings themselves with regular watering for at least two to three weeks. Raspberry leaves quickly bloom, which actively evaporate moisture, and the not yet rooted root system cannot provide enough moisture. And if the spring is dry and hot, the seedlings have a chance not to take root.

Weeding and soil cultivation.

The root system of raspberries is shallow, so you need to carefully cultivate the land under the bushes. In the spring, the weeds sprout. Digging the soil can be carried out at a distance of at least 30 cm from the bush.

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Raspberry recovered - planting and care, cultivation, diseases

Raspberry recovered is a group of crop varieties that are distinguished by their ability to bear fruit on both annual and biennial shoots. Repairing varieties have been known in horticulture for about 200 years. Such raspberries can be harvested once a year or two, but the quality of the second harvest will be less high. Breeding work on the cultivation of remontant raspberries adapted to the climate of the middle zone began in the 70s of the last century, and since then many reliable varieties have appeared, which have already become popular. Among them, a special place is occupied by the varieties of the so-called standard raspberries, which are distinguished by the special strength of the stems. not sagging under the weight of berries.

Raspberry is a perennial shrub. The main roots of raspberries are located at a depth of 15-30 cm, and the adventitious roots can spread 2-3 m to the sides of the bush. Reconstructed raspberries are not much different from common raspberries, although some of its varieties almost do not form root shoots, and others generally have low reproductive performance. In the spring of each year, new shoots grow in replacement raspberries, on which berries are formed. By the beginning of winter, the upper part of the fruiting shoot dries up during the growing season, the rest of the next year, fruit branches are formed, as is the case with ordinary varieties, and on the other hand, the fruiting period is extended. allows you to pick berries from the bushes throughout the season.

Raspberry remontant, in comparison with common raspberry, has other advantages: it is more resistant to diseases and pests, so there are almost no wormy berries in it, it is much easier to care for it. Almost all remontant varieties are large-fruited. In modern garden, repair bushes of raspberries have become the same common phenomenon. like black currant, gooseberry, red currant, strawberry and other widely grown berry crops.

We bring to your attention a carefully selected material on how the planting and care of remontant raspberries in the open field from seeds is carried out, how to determine which remontant raspberries are, how to cut remontant raspberries, how to care for remontant raspberries after harvesting, what diseases and pests of repair raspberries In addition, we will give a description of the varieties of remontant raspberries, dividing them into groups according to maturity and adaptability to a particular region.

Planting repair raspberries

When to plant repair raspberries.

Raspberries love light but well-fertilized and moist soil. Groundwater should lie in an area with raspberries at a depth of no more than 1 m. Recovered raspberries are even more demanding on lighting, soil fertility, moisture supply and warmth. The site should be protected from the wind and very well lit, because in the shade, fruiting times are transferred, and the harvest may not be as abundant as you expect. The optimal soil for replacement raspberries is nutritious loam with a pH of 5.8-6.7. Acidic soils will have to be limed by adding dolomite, marl or ground limestone to them.It is advisable that the area before planting raspberries was under black fallow or green manure, such as mustard, rye, lupine, which must be plowed into the ground a month and a half before planting. Do not plant remontant raspberries in the place where peppers, potatoes, tomatoes used to grow or raspberries, as these crops can cause soil fatigue - depletion of the soil with trace elements and minerals.

Repaired raspberries are planted both in early spring and autumn, but the best time for planting in open ground is late September or early October.

Planting repair raspberries in the spring.

If you decide to plant a remontant raspberry in the spring, then in the fall you will have to prepare a place for it: clear weeds and dig up the soil to the depth of a shovel bayonet, while adding 2-3 buckets of high peat or humus for each m² and a glass of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, or 200 -400 g of complex mineral fertilizers.

Planting and caring for raspberries in the garden

In the spring, dig holes measuring 40x40x40 at a distance of 70 cm from each other, leaving row spacings at least 1.5 m wide.The seedling planted in the ground should have a well-developed root system, the diameter of the shoot at the base should be at least 5 mm, and the length of about 20 To make sure that the seedling is suitable for growing, before buying, cut off one bud from it and pry the bark on the shoot: the bark on the side adjacent to the wood should be green, and the bud should not be dry. If the root system of the seedling is somewhat dry, before planting, hold it for swelling for a day or two in water with a root formation stimulator.

Seedlings of remontant raspberries are lowered into a pit and covered with fertile soil so that the root collar is strictly at the level of the surface of the site. On sandy soils, it is permissible to immerse the neck into the ground by 4 cm. After planting, the seedling is watered, and when the water is absorbed, the ground around the bush is mulched.

Planting repair raspberries in the fall.

Autumn, as we already wrote, is the best time for planting repair raspberries. In the spring, a plot is prepared for raspberries - it is dug up with fertilizers introduced into the soil. Otherwise, the principle and order of planting are the same as in the spring.

Growing repair raspberries

Caring for repair raspberries in the spring.

Caring for repair raspberries begins in early spring, at the beginning of March - on still frozen soil, they are fed with full-fledged mineral fertilizers.

In April, they carry out sanitary pruning of raspberries - shoots that have frozen or dried up over the winter are shortened to the first healthy bud. If last year you suspected that fungi had settled on the raspberry bushes, treat the bushes in mid-April with a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate or Nitrafen. If no signs of fungus are found, the first preventive treatment of remontant raspberries with fungicides, for example, Topaz or Ridomil, is carried out in the first week of May.

Recovered raspberries in the spring require foliar feeding with full mineral fertilizer with the addition of a growth stimulator. At the end of May, remontant raspberries are treated against pests with some biological insecticide - Aktofit or Lepidocide, for example.

Do not forget to water the area every week, loosen the soil on it and weed the weeds - raspberries do not tolerate weeds and soil compaction. The first loosening of the site is carried out in early spring, before the buds begin to bloom: the aisles are loosened to a depth of 10-15 cm, and the soil around the bushes - by 5-8 cm, will have to be carried out from 4 to 6 loosening.

Caring for repair raspberries in the summer.

Care and cultivation of remontant raspberries in the summer involves regular watering and loosening of the soil. Tall varieties of raspberries must be attached to supports or tied up. To do this, every three meters along the row, strong high fasteners are driven in, between which a wire or rope is pulled at 2-3 levels - at a height of 50 cm, 1 m and 1.5 m from the surface of the site.

Recovered raspberries are already starting to ripen in the summer, so the use of pesticides to protect against pests and diseases is not recommended.

To prevent the berries from burning during a period of too active sun, remontant raspberries must be protected from the harmful effects of direct sunlight with nets or thin spunbond, which is thrown over the bushes.

Caring for repair raspberries in the fall.

Recovered raspberries sometimes bear fruit until the very cold. Served shoots are pruned before winter, in newly planted bushes only part of the stems 20 cm high are left, and complete pruning is carried out the next year. After pruning, raspberries are cleaned of plant residues and old mulch, which it is desirable to burn, as they may contain pests or pathogens. After that, water-podzimny watering of repair raspberries is carried out, after which - the last loosening of the soil with a turnover of the layer, and then the soil surface is mulched for the winter with a layer of semi-rotten manure or humus 10 cm thick.

Watering repair raspberries.

Growing replacement raspberries requires regular and sufficient watering. On average, you need to moisten the soil on your raspberry plant once a week, but during dry times, you may need to do this much more often. The soil of a raspberry tree should be slightly moist all the time.

Water the raspberries abundantly so that the soil is saturated to a depth of 30-40 cm. The most important thing is to provide soil moisture before flowering, as well as during the growth and ripening of the fruits. Before wintering, water the raspberries abundantly with watering.

However, care should be taken to avoid stagnant water, as this can cause even more damage than insufficient watering - in moist soil, air stops flowing to the roots, the soil becomes cold, and this can slow down development, especially in spring.

The most effective way of watering repair raspberries is drip. This saves water and moisturizes the soil evenly. But you can simply moisten the soil with a hose or use irrigation ditches. To do this, rollers 10-15 cm high are dug out of the ground around the rows, and water is poured into the shallow ditch formed under the roller. Do not use cold water for irrigation, let it warm up first. If the plot is mulched in the spring, then the frequency of watering is noticeably reduced.

Top dressing of repair raspberries.

If you dug up the soil on the site before planting with the specified amount of fertilizer, your repair raspberries in the open field will not need additional fertilizing for two years. From the third year, fertilizer must be applied annually. Raspberries respond very well to organic substances, which contain almost all the elements necessary for the nutrition of this crop, and improve the structure of the soil. The best organic soil additives are a solution of fermented mullein in a ratio of 1:10 and a solution of chicken manure in a ratio of 1:20. Organic matter is applied 2-3 times from the beginning of the growing season at the rate of 3-5 liters per 1 m² of plot. But if you have a good habit of regularly mulching raspberries with humus or compost, you do not need to specially add organic matter.

In addition to organic fertilizers, remontant raspberries also need mineral fertilizing, and in some cases it is enough to add superphosphate only when planting, but without potassium, the raspberry leaves become small, their edges turn brown, and the tissue between the veins die off. Only those potash fertilizers that do not contain chlorine can be applied to the soil - for example, potassium-magnesium or potassium sulfate. The best of the complete mineral fertilizers for replacement raspberries is Nitroammofosk or its analogs, which are sufficient to apply in early spring at the rate of 50-100 g per m² , or distribute 50-80 g of superphosphate, 20-40 g of potassium sulfate and 20-40 g of urea for each m2 ...

Transplant of repair raspberries.

It is advisable to grow the repairing raspberries in one place for 10-15 years, after which, as soon as the harvests begin to fall or the berries become smaller, the bush is dug up, divided into parts, the cuts are processed with crushed charcoal, after which parts of the bush are planted in a new place. due to the fact that they initially chose the wrong place for her.

The transplant is carried out at the same time and in the same order as the original planting.

Pruning repair raspberries

Pruning raspberries in a repair spring.

After overwintering, those raspberry bushes that have not been cut off may develop frostbite, dry patches or cracks. In this case, sanitary pruning of remontant raspberries is carried out with the removal of affected shoots to the first healthy bud. Do not cut the tops of healthy stems - this will delay fruiting and may negatively affect yield. Trim the remontant raspberries when the buds begin to swell on them - at this time it is easy to determine which buds are healthy and which are affected.

If you are growing a remontant raspberry variety that gives many root shoots, remove them mercilessly, leaving no more than 10-15 stems per square meter of plot, half of which are annual shoots, and the second part is two-year-old fruiting.

Pruning raspberry remontant in autumn.

We advise you to cut off all the stems of the repair raspberries at the root after fruiting. Next year, in the spring, new shoots will grow, which during the growing season will have time to grow, ripen, bloom and give a good harvest. Since pathogens and pests have nowhere to wait out the winter, new shoots will grow healthy. In addition, the development cycle of the main pests of raspberries coincides with the ripening periods of common raspberries, and by the time the repair raspberries yield a crop, fears that the berries will infect harmful insects will disappear.

Reproduction of repair raspberries

Reproduction of repair raspberries by root suckers.

Despite the fact that most of the remontant varieties almost do not form root shoots, there are some that have offspring. The largest number of root shoots is formed in four-five-year-old bushes - from 2-3 to 10-15 per m² of plot. When the growth reaches a height of 5-10 cm, in cloudy weather it is dug up, transplanted into a school garden, watered, mulch the soil around it and shade from the sun. Further care consists in regular watering, and when the seedlings take root, which usually happens after two weeks, sun protection can be removed. By the fall, you will have excellent seedlings that can be planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction of repair raspberries by root cuttings.

In the autumn loosening of the site, a raspberry root with a diameter of at least 2 cm is dug, divided into slices 8-12 cm long, planted in a continuous row in a furrow 6-8 cm deep, bury, water and mulch the surface. Next season, water and loosen the soil on the site, remove weeds, feed young plants, treat them from pests and diseases, and at the end of the season, transplant seedlings to a permanent place.

Reproduction of raspberries remontant green cuttings.

Cuttings of repair raspberries are harvested in late spring from annual shoots no more than 3-4 cm high, some of which are underground. The cutting should have a rosette of leaves. Cuttings are cut to a depth of 5-6 cm and taken out together with a lump of earth. The cuts are treated with crushed coal, and the cuttings are immediately planted on a garden bed in a greenhouse according to a 5x10 cm scheme at the same depth at which they grew, and watered. The soil for rooting cuttings is a mixture of river sand and peat. Water the cuttings, keep them from overheating, and when they take root, ventilate the greenhouse to harden the cuttings. When they can spend the day outdoors, they are transplanted into the open ground to a permanent location.

We told you about the reproduction of raspberry remontant by dividing the bush in the transplant section.

Raspberry repair in winter

Since the remontant raspberry is quite winter-hardy, it is not necessary to additionally cover the site for the winter - a thick layer of mulch is enough, but if severe frosts come, and even then without snow, pour a layer of hay on the site and put up a fence so that it is not blown away by the wind. If you did not cut the stems of the raspberries for the winter, bend them to the ground, press them down with a board or wooden shield and cover with dry foliage, or draw spruce branches on top.

Repair raspberry pests and diseases

Diseases of the repair raspberries.

Reconstituted raspberries are more resistant than conventional raspberries, but can sometimes suffer from insects and diseases. Among diseases, fungal diseases such as didimella or purpurea, anthracnose, septoria, verticillium or wilting are most often affected by repair raspberries. Effective treatment of raspberries with fungicides against fungi - Bordeaux liquid, Topaz, Oskim, Fundazol, Fitosporin, Switch, Amistar, Skor and others.

In addition to fungal diseases, remontant raspberries are affected by bacterial diseases - root cancer or root goiter. Bacterial diseases can only be fought with preventive measures - carefully examine the seedlings before buying, strengthen the immunity of plants, strictly follow the agrotechnical measures and care recommendations developed for this crop, regularly carry out preventive treatments.

Pests and diseases of raspberries - fight and prevention

The most serious problem for any plant is represented by viral diseases - curliness, shrubs, mosaicism and infectious chlorosis. They are terrible because there is no cure for them yet, and if signs of the disease are found, the only way out is to destroy the diseased plant.

Sometimes raspberries can be disfigured by mycoplasma disease - overgrowth or a witch's broom, which also cannot be cured. How to deal with incurable diseases? Only by preventive measures. To begin with, conduct a regular inspection of the plantings of raspberries and, if sick specimens are found, immediately and mercilessly remove and burn them. In the place where the diseased plant grew, new ones cannot be planted for several years. Maintain a high level of agricultural technology, feed raspberries to increase their resistance to pathogens, wage a merciless fight against weeds and pests that carry diseases, plant only healthy seedlings and keep repair raspberries at a distance from common raspberries, which is easier and faster to be affected by diseases and pests, therefore it serves a source of infection for repair raspberries.

Repair raspberry pests.

From the large list of raspberry pests, remontant varieties are most often affected by raspberry bugs, aphids, spider and raspberry mites and caterpillars. After the raspberries bloom, it is undesirable to treat them with chemicals. In the fight against pests, it is recommended to use herbal preparations, for example, infusions of onion peels or garlic that are effective against mites. In 10 liters of water, 100 g of onion peel or chopped garlic is insisted for 2-3 days, then the infusion is filtered and 50 g of laundry soap dissolved in warm water is added to it. Instead of soap, you can use a concentrated liquid for washing dishes.

An infusion prepared according to this recipe is successfully used against leaf gnawing and sucking insects: a liter can of wood ash is diluted in 5 liters of water, separately dissolved in a grated 50 g of green laundry soap. litere of water. A bottle with a capacity of 30-50 ml is half-filled with cold water, a teaspoon or dessert spoon of kerosene is poured into it, the bottle is corked and shaken vigorously for several minutes so that the gasoline does not tighten the water surface is covered with a film, but mixes evenly with it. Then the first two solutions are filtered, mixed , kerosene water is added to the resulting mixture, water is added up to 10 liters and immediately used for processing remontant raspberries.

If you notice pests on raspberries before flowering, you can resort to treating them with biological insecticides such as Bitoxibacillin, Aktofit or Lipidocid.

If you want to get more detailed information about the pests and diseases of remontant raspberries, find the article "Diseases and pests of raspberries" on the site, which describes in detail all the problems of this crop and how to get rid of it. them.

Raspberry varieties Remontant

Raspberry remontant early.

Early ripening varieties of remontant raspberries are varieties that ripen in late July - early August. For example:

  • - Hercules is a large-fruited, consistently productive and resistant to diseases and pests early variety with erect shoots that do not need support and a garter. The fruiting zone takes up half the length of the shoots. The variety is distinguished by thin, tough and prickly thorns, dense very large berries weighing up to 10 g, truncated-conical shape and a thick ruby ​​color with a sweet and sour refreshing taste. The bush of this variety bears fruit from early August until the first frost
  • - Diamond is a richly fruiting variety, ripens in the first decade of August. The height of the bush is up to 1.5 m, soft thorns are located at the base of the stem, the fruiting zone is half the length of the stems. The berries are conical, large (some weigh up to 7 g), intense ruby ​​color with a bright shine. Dessert and berry taste, sweet and sour
  • - Bryansk Yubileiny - medium-sized, compact, high-yielding variety, ripens in the third decade of July. Berries are large and medium, weighing up to 6 g, elongated, bright red and sweet-sour taste
  • - Apricot is one of the most exotic varieties of remontant raspberries, which, moreover, is practically not affected by diseases and pests. The thorns are located at the bottom of the shoot, making harvesting easier. The berries of this variety, weighing only 3-4 g, ripen in early August, have the shape of a dull cone, amber-golden in color and apricot aroma. Raspberries of the Apricot variety bear fruit until the frost
  • - Eurasia is a high-yielding, disease- and pest-resistant, early-maturing and large-fruited variety with standard shoots and sparse thorns located along the entire length of the stem. The berries of this variety are conical, dense, dark raspberry color and can weigh more than 6 g. The taste of the fruit is sour. sweet.

Raspberry remontant average.

Mid-season varieties of remontant raspberries are those that are ready for harvesting in the second half of August:

  • - Orange miracle is a large-fruited, fruitful variety of raspberries, disease-resistant, elongated and blunt. conical berries, of which they can reach 12 g in weight and 4 cm in length. The taste of bright orange fruits is dessert, sweet and sour. Raspberries of this variety bear fruit until the frost
  • - Ruby necklace is a fruitful variety with dense large berries of bright ruby ​​color, weighing more than 8 g. Fruit taste is sweet and sour, refreshing. The thorns located at the base of the shoots do not interfere with harvesting
  • - Mulatto is a plentifully fruiting variety, resistant to diseases and pests, with round shiny dark cherry medium and large berries weighing up to 5 g. Fruit taste is sweet and sour.
  • - Golden Autumn is a large-fruited fruitful variety with short soft thorns located in the lower part of the shoots, and dense golden-yellow berries of an elongated-conical shape weighing up to 7 g. The taste of the fruit is dessert, with a delicate aroma of raspberries
  • - The Firebird is a high-yielding large-fruited variety, on the shoots of which soft and thin thorns are located in the lower and middle parts of the shoots. Conical berries can reach a weight of 6 g. The taste of the fruit is sweet and sour, the pulp is tender, juicy.

Raspberry late remontant.

There are not so many late-ripening varieties of remontant raspberries, ripening at the end of August or even in September, as there are early and mid-ripening varieties. Among the most famous are:

  • - Heritage - American-bred winter-hardy and disease-resistant variety, obtained by crossing Darkham, Cuthberg and Milton. Red, round, aromatic berries begin to ripen in late August - early September
  • - Morning dew is a large-fruited variety of Polish selection, ripening at the end of summer with yellow fruits weighing up to 8 g of excellent sweet and sour taste
  • - Om Trezhe - ripening in late August or early September, resistant to diseases and pests, raspberries with dense juicy light red berries of good taste, elongated-conical shape and weighing up to 5 g The variety is obtained by interspecific crossing of the varieties Om Cascade and Glen Moy
  • - Zyugana (Shugana) is a drought-resistant medium-late Swiss variety with medium-sized tasty berries, which, with good care of the bush, can reach a weight of 10 g
  • - Erica is one of the best fruitful varieties of Western European selection. Berries of excellent taste, dark red, dense, large, shiny.

Varieties of remontant raspberries for the Moscow region.

Among the varieties of remontant raspberries, many are adapted to the conditions of the middle zone, and it remains only to choose the most productive and winter-hardy. Such raspberries grow well in the suburbs:

  • - Bryanskoe Divo is a promising high-yielding variety with strong stems that do not need support and red berries of an elongated conical shape, sometimes weighing 20 g. Fruits begin to ripen in the second half of July, and fruiting continues until the end of September
  • - Polka - a hybrid of Polish selection, characterized by increased shoot formation, between the Otm Bliss varieties and the prototype of the P89141 line. Fruiting of this variety begins in August and continues until the very frost. Very large, dense, shiny, oblong and dark purple polka berries can weigh up to 12 g
  • - Atlant is a disease and pest resistant, large-fruited, high-yielding variety with short and sparse thorns located in the lower part of the shoots. Berries are elongated-conical, dense, large, weighing up to 9 g. The taste of the fruit is sweet and sour, the pulp is juicy and tender
  • - Penguin is an early ripe fruitful variety of raspberries, resistant to diseases and pests with a standard bush, with dark medium-sized spines concentrated in the lower part of the shoots and medium dense berries of a round-conical shape of dark raspberry color. color
  • - Indian Summer is a high-yielding early ripening variety that is not susceptible to diseases and raspberry mites, with juicy ruby-colored berries of excellent taste.

Raspberry varieties for Siberia. When choosing varieties of remontant raspberries for cultivation in Siberia, keep in mind that the most important secret of success is to wake up raspberries as soon as possible in spring. The best remontant varieties for short summers and harsh winters are:

  • - Monomakh's hat is a fruitful, almost thornless bush in the form of a small tree with beautiful large blunt-conical berries of a rich red color, sometimes reaching 20 g in weight
  • - Unattainable - an early ripe high-yielding variety with a bush height of up to 160 cm, fruiting at the end of July and ending in October. Bright red, tender, sweet and sour berries of this variety reach a weight of 7 g. The variety justifies its name in all characteristics
  • - Augustine is a fruitful variety with short thorns and wide-conical berries weighing up to 4.5 g of dark raspberry color with dense tender sweet pulp
  • - Reliable - one of the most stable varieties in terms of yield, resistant to unfavorable climatic conditions, for which it got its name. Red glossy berries of a blunt-conical shape weighing up to 5 g have a pronounced aroma and excellent taste.

The best varieties of remontant raspberries.

There are a lot of varieties of remontant raspberries, and it is not an easy task to name the best of them, because each gardener has its own requirements and evaluation criteria. But according to the totality of undeniable advantages, the best varieties of remontant raspberries include Hercules, Yellow Giant, Indian Summer, Atlas, Penguin and Apricot.

New varieties of remontant raspberries.

Repair raspberries are becoming more and more popular among amateur gardeners, and this is not surprising, because their advantages over common raspberries are undeniable. Therefore, experiments on the development of new remontant varieties are becoming more and more intense. This process was especially active at the beginning of the 21st century, when the varieties we have already described, Hercules, Brilliantovaya, Hat Monomakh, Nedostupny and Penguin, appeared. Among the more recently bred varieties of interest are Golden Domes, Autumn Beauty, and August Miami.


Raspberries are a favorite berry in Russia, always highly valued for their excellent taste and medicinal properties, they have been grown here since time immemorial. It is not for nothing that in Russian folklore it is she who has become a symbol of a sweet and free life. Raspberry belongs to the group of the most valuable berry crops. Its fruits have long been considered a real natural elixir of health and longevity.

Perennial fast-growing shrub. The leaves are pinnate, five to three-leafed. Shoots of many varieties usually have thorns, prickly or soft, frequent or sparse, of different colors - it depends on the variety. M. blooms after a period of spring frost; flowers have a double perianth: green calyx and white corolla. Flowers are bisexual, self-pollinating. It can also be grown in single-crop plantations, however, with cross-pollination, yields can increase. The fruit is a complex drupe. The color of the berries is dark red, red, light red, yellow, the shape can be round, conical, oblong or hemispherical. The berries are very tender, when ripe, they often crumble from the bush, quickly deteriorate.

Fruits contain 7-11% sugar, 0.5-0.8% protein, 0.6-0.9% pectin, 1.2-2.3% organic acids such as citric, tartaric, malic, coffee, cinchona and others. It contains ascorbic acid, catechins, anthocyanins, vitamins B9, B12, E, etc. from mineral compounds it contains quite a lot of iron, zinc, copper, manganese.

Literally everyone knows about the antipyretic and analgesic properties of raspberries. Is there an even tastier cold medicine? Due to the rich biochemical composition, its berries are used for the treatment and prevention of many serious diseases and disorders of the human body: for colds, cardiovascular diseases and stomach problems. It is able to regulate the functions of the thyroid and prostate glands, in folk medicine it is used in the treatment of impotence. infertility and neurasthenia. Beta-sitosterol, contained in berries, prevents the deposition of cholesterol in the walls of blood vessels, in terms of the content of this rare medicinal substance, raspberries are second only to sea buckthorn fruits and in terms of antioxidants they surpass most berry and fruit crops, including such well-known berry "healers" as blueberries, blueberries and lingonberries. The antioxidant and anticarcinogenic properties of raspberries have been proven, in addition, it is less than other berry crops capable of accumulating the most dangerous ecotoxicants, which is especially important in conditions of unfavorable ecology.

In this plant, not only berries are healing, but also leaves, inflorescences, stem and roots, which are also widely used in traditional medicine recipes for the treatment of a number of diseases.

Sweet and aromatic berries have become an important part of many culinary recipes. Jam and jams, compotes and jelly are made from raspberries, juices, wine and liqueurs are prepared. Indispensable in the preparation of many desserts, salads, sauces, meat dishes and even soups.

Raspberry extracts are used in the production of perfumery.

Wonderful honey plant. In terms of nectar production, it is the absolute leader among all berry crops. From 1 hectare of planting, you can get up to 120 kg of excellent medicinal honey.

Several types of raspberries are used in ornamental gardening. (See Raspberry)

Raspberry remontant - the difference from a simple raspberry, features of fruiting, video

Raspberry recovered is a plant that bears fruit twice a year - in summer and autumn. This is due to the peculiarity of its development. In the southern regions of Russia, two crops can be obtained from repair raspberries. The berries of the second harvest have time to ripen before the onset of frost, and the bush bears fruit abundantly.

In central Russia, cold weather sets in much earlier. Due to early frosts, the berries do not have time to ripen in autumn, and therefore it will no longer be possible to grow remontant raspberries in the usual way, since the second harvest is bad. You can get a good second crop only in greenhouse conditions. Therefore, the raspberry bush is grown as an annual plant. In this case, raspberries bear fruit more abundantly, and the berries have time to ripen before frost.

Consider the fruiting cycle of common and remontant raspberries.

How common raspberries grow

Last year's shoots bloom in the spring. In summer, new root shoots grow next to them, and last year's branch begins to bear fruit. Immediately after the end of fruiting, it is advisable to cut off old shoots, as they attract nutrients. In autumn, annual shoots shed their leaves, sap flow stops. Last year's shoots bloom in the spring ...

For raspberries to winter well, they need to be covered with snow.

Growing repair raspberries

In spring, remontant raspberries bloom in the same way as ordinary raspberries in summer, they lay young shoots. Then the old branch begins to bear fruit. The first crop ripens quickly, so by the end of summer it is necessary to cut off the old shoot so that the young shoots have time to ripen and begin to bear fruit. Before the onset of frost, young shoots have time to give a full harvest, but not all of the ovary has time to ripen due to the onset of cold weather. Young shoots shed their leaves, but a dried ovary remains on them, which is a distinctive feature of remontant raspberries. So raspberries hibernate until next spring. In this way, remontant raspberries are grown in the southern regions of Russia, getting two harvests from it.

Watch the video: How to Grow Blueberries from Seeds of Blueberry Quick Method